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KNOWN DESTINATION
Waves
Vol 21, No.9
By Evan Slater


 

Should the Mentawais be a part of your next travel plans?

Quick, what's the first place that surfers now think of when they're planning their dream vacation?
TAHITI?
Nope.
TAVARUA?
Uh-Uh.
G-LAND?
Sorry.
And with three wrong answers, you are the weakest link - goodbye. Okay, so maybe you didn't earn any extra cash this spring from annoying quiz shows hosted by red haired ice women. But chances are you've still banked enough for your annual tube quest abroad. And as you scour over your favorite surf magazines hoping to find the next Santosha, you'll soon discover that the surf media isn't giving you a whole lot of options. In fact, if you base your selection solely on photo count, you'd have to be blind to ignore the Mentawais (Pronounced Men-tah-wees), that string of islands off Sumatra that can burn up more Fuji-film in a week than a whole summer's worth of Japanese tourists in Waikiki.

And it's not just quantity: nothing these days is sexier than a perfectly groomed hollow trees right or a rifling Macaronis left. From the fat, middle -aged long boarder to the stylish, ever-hunting tube warrior, there's a dream wave waiting for all of us in the Mentawais. But this every surfers field of dreams is a dangerous concept - never has a surf-centric region expanded with greater speed and intensity than the Mentawais. And the result? Even in his worst Larium Hallucinations, "official" Mentawais discoverer Martin Daly couldn't have foreseen what his once-secret wonderland would turn into: a battleground for surf charters and ownership rights, the site of a major contest, the biggest surf photo studio outside of the North Shore and a virtual sitting duck for the next surfing billionaire who wants to create a club med. for waveriders.

This season, the area dubbed "surfing's biggest theme park" will continue to add excess baggage. As many as 3000 surfers will besiege the Mentawais over the next few months, and every patron undoubtedly will be armed to the gills and carrying the same high expectations: perfect surf and empty line ups. Which brings us to the real $64,000 question: is this still possible? Is Daly's planet still a surfers paradise? As with most queries, the answer depends on whom you talk to. For one thing, the Mentawais might be the only place in the world that can sustain such an unbridled surf tourism boom. "There's never been a region like it for surfers," says Sean Murphy of Waterways Travel, who represents the Surf Travel Company in the Mentawais. "And to be honest, I don't think there ever will be again. Sure, the main breaks have gotten more crowded, but there's always another spot you can go to. The amount of good surf in the area is limitless."

Apparently, there are also no limits on the number of boats allowed in the channel. Since there's no indigenous surfing population to enforce order and no official "Mentawais Charter Alliance" that has agreed to designate a cut off point, charter companies continue to stock up on ships as if they're compiling nuclear warheads - they don't necessarily like it, but they feel it's their only way to protect their business. Jeff Wilson of Quiksilver Travel says that Martin Daly has added another ship to his Indies Trader Fleet, bringing his total to three. Sean Murphy acknowledged that the Surf Travel Co. has added two more vessels, bringing it's flotilla to eight and the approximate number of functional charter boats in the Mentawais to astounding 30. "It's kind of a, well, if you can't beat 'em, join 'em, type of thing," says Murphy. "You see a company like Great Breaks add another boat, and you have to do the same. It keeps escalating."

And the scary thing is: Bunk space is still filling up. But with more boats in the water, more aggressive marketing campaigns from the charter companies and five solid years of glossy magazine spreads, you're seeing a different type of surfer gearing up for the trip of his life on the docks of Padang. In other words: it's not just for the pampered pro or the hardcore tube hunter anymore. "There's definitely more average surfers going this year," says Henry Morales of Wave Hunters. "We don't have many pro trips booked at all." Murphy agrees: "There's easily as much interest this year, but there's been a change in the type of person who goes. It seems like your mainstream surf traveller - the guy who's been to Tavarua or Namotu before and is looking for something different - is the one who is choosing the Mentawais this year."

The flip side of course, is that the hardcore surfers are exploring other options. Surf travel companies say they've mostly been pushing the outer atolls of the Maldives for the surfers who've had one too many noodle arms at macaronis. Other hot spots include Samoa, Nihiwatu (aka Occy's left) off Sumba, Southeast Indo (Including Timor and Roti) and Tonga. Many of the pros are also thinking differently - or at least trying to. "It's much, much more crowded than it used to be," says Saxon Boucher, who first travelled to the Mentawais in 1996 and has been going back every year since. "When I first started going, it was, like, maybe two or three other boats total. Now it's hard not to bump into other crews. And when it's guys who've worked all year and paid good money to get a weeks worth of perfect waves, it's almost like you feel bad. "My trip last Summer was the first one so I figured, okay, maybe it's time for a change," Boucher continues. "But I still got insane waves on the trip and have yet to find another area that compares as far as quality goes. Until I do, it's probably inevitable that I'll keep going back."

This, of course lies at the heart of the Mentawais monster: It's just too damned perfect to ignore. And if you have four or five grand burning a hole in your pocket and want to exchange it for the barrels of your life, you'll be hard pressed to find a better bet than the "Sinking Islands" off Sumatra. You can relax, though it's not just a series of tropical vert ramps and half pipes as much of the surf media would lead you to believe. Because, regardless of how many thrusters have laid tracks in these waters, any Mentawais first-timer (or fifth-timer, for that matter) can't help but feel like he's on a true "adventure". "I've been there a bunch of times now," says Surfer's Journal photo editor Jeff Divine, "and as soon as you get on that boat, you get a real appreciation for how remote this place really is - it's like you're on Mars. And even though it's more crowded now, I think it'll always feel this way, which is why it'll always be the ultimate surf trip."

The Quiksilver Crossing basically went to the Mentawais to get good oil at some of the lesser known spots and do some research on the impact the number of people going up there is having on the environment. When we first got there the famous spots like HT's and Macaronis were packed. After we travelled for a couple of nights we woke up to see this line-up out of the window and not a person or boat insight, except for as little Indo in a dug out canoe trying to sell these weird skinny trumpet fish. We didn't see another soul for the entire length of our stay after that.

One afternoon we were surfing a little right and bosko wanted to shoot some flash. Anyway, the sunset was crazy and the lips started getting all golden. We stayed out until it was pitch black. Harvey was a bit freaked about the mozzies cause Malaria is pretty rampant up there. But no one got probed so it was all good.

Brooko first went to the Mentawais with Kelly a few years ago so he knows how good those waves can be surfed. He's got the full package, power, tricks, hacks… he was ripping. Being up there brings out the best in your surfing. Everytime someone did something sick, we'd all be hooting and stoked - it was a nice vibe.

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