THE QUIKSILVER CROSSING CHANGES TACK.....see latest Captains Log.





























KELLY'S RIVER
Surfing World
Number 262, September / October
By Tim Baker


 

DON'T SEEK TO FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF SLATER. SEEK WHAT HE SOUGHT.

"I don't know how I appeared to the world, but to myself I seemed as a small boy playing on the water's edge, seeking a shell or pebble more brilliant than the last, and the whole ocean of truth stretched out before me" - ISSAC NEWTON

Kelly and Tom have just been on a little exploratory mission up a river on one of the myriad of islands we pass each day. Tom's videotaped the whole thing and as soon as they get back to the boat, he whacks it on the TV for us all to watch. Someone chucks in a Café Del Mar CD and it's atmospheric, primal percussion sounds like it was composed especially for the footage. And as we watch, caught up in the images of the jungle and river, and the ambient soundtrack, I sense we're watching something more than a couple of blokes on a dinghy up a river...


"The life on tour is pretty exciting. There's always a lot of stuff happening. It's really easy to get caught up in thinking that's what life's about, you know, to not be excited just by everyday life," Kelly will tell me some days later, reflecting on his absence from the pro tour. "Sometimes I feel like I'm missing out a bit on pushing myself. But then, I'm probably more healthy, physically and emotionally and, at this point in my life, that's more important."

Kelly sits on the bow of the dinghy as it slowly edges upstream into this dense, teeming jungle. He holds a rough, hand carved wooden paddle in his hands, dipping it's tip into the brown river water to form a perfect tube in it's wake. The video camera focuses in on the little barrel so deftly created - a tiny spinning vortex in the wake of the boats passage. The dinghy approaches a fallen tree trunk that blocks its progress. All manner of jungle debris has gathered in the lee of the tree - leaves, branches, seed pods - forming a kind of natural dam. Kelly climbs out of the boat and on to the fallen tree, surveying the surrounding jungle curiously. The dinghy recedes and the lean, tanned figure in vivid blue boardshorts is left standing uncertainly in the midst of all this rampant nature. There is not a scrap of plastic or man made refuse among the jungle debris, nothing inorganic, and only the fabric of his shorts stands out from all the pervasive earthy tones of jungle green and mud brown - a small speck of humanity dwarfed by the overwhelming natural world. With thick stubble and a deep tan from a week out on the ocean, he looks every inch a native. All of a sudden, he's not a six-time world surfing champion, not a surf poster pin-up boy… just a person. Small, vulnerable, exposed, but strangely relaxed, hemmed in on all sides by this uncaring vegetation, over sized palms and overhanging vines. Less threatening, perhaps, than the leering looming autograph hunters or television cameras that press in on him back in that other world - the world of contests and swarming media and surf shop promos - a world that, at this moment, seems a million miles away, unimaginable in its hollow posturing. There is some kind of relief, some peace, to be found in the jungle - which would unknowingly swallow him up and leave him here to rot into compost, draw him into the inalterable cycles of decay and life like any other entity, mindless of his fame. And right now, it seems like that kind of anonymity is exactly what Kelly Slater craves. The whole little expedition, a flat day diversion during the latest leg of The Quiksilver Crossing, seems to say something about Kelly's current circumstance - open, inquiring, curious, uncertain. The river is often used as a metaphor for the journey of self-knowledge all of us are on. The tree presents an obstacle to further progress - and Kelly accepts the temporary delay easily, peacefully, taking the opportunity to step outside his safe place and inspect his surroundings, get in touch with the natural world, the great unknown, the unknowable...

Weird how all this soul searching is going on even as the whole world still watches, via internet, on the specially launched "Kelly Slater - Outside the Boundaries," website, where daily feeds of words, digital photos and video clips are beamed back to a surfing world hungry for news of its greatest champion. It's trippy to be a part of this expedition that broadcasts a daily record of its progress, each night, from our boat anchored off a deserted tropical island somewhere in the Indian Ocean. Our skipper, Albert, gets up on the wheelhouse roof with the satellite antennae and moves it around, risking radiation poisoning, while George, the internet technician, checks the reception on the Sat-phone inside the wheelhouse. "Two bars, three bars, two bars", George observes, as Albert scuffles about the roof trying to find the best reception.

Kelly is not oblivious to the irony, or ethical dilemmas, of this kind of promotion of the great wilderness of surf experience. "I guess if you're a real purist at heart, a true soul surfer, what we're doing here is like the devil's work," he tells me. Days before, we'd come upon a right hand point break that a guy and his girlfriend on a yacht had to themselves. They didn't seem to mind, but Kelly's sensitive to the intrusion. "Like, we pulled up and surfed and there were people there just having fun and we pull out the jet-skis and we have photographers who are downloading to the internet, and this guy thinks he's got some spot no one knows about."

It's hardly surprising that he's become suspicious of the machinations of the probing media world that has made his life such a goldfish bowl. Everyone wants to know Kelly, what makes him tick, where he's at, what he wants, where he's headed. Thing is, those are the very same questions that seem to be dominating his thoughts these days. Fame is no promoter of self-knowledge - perhaps exactly the opposite. We get talking about astrology one day and I mention that your late 20's are known as the "Saturn Return," an age when a lot of people try to "sort themselves out" or start asking the big questions about life and their role in it, and make major changes. Kelly is 29. "I think I'm generally a couple of years behind." He reckons, as if the artificial clammer and hype of pro tour life has impeded his emotional development. But not anymore… Kelly arrives at the harbour to board this leg of the Quiksilver Crossing riding on the roof of a mini-bus, with his board bags and a couple of locals, like any other dusty Third World traveler. It's this desire to step outside his cocoon and just experience life, as the rest of us do, without special treatment, that he seems to crave right now - like Jim Carey in the Truman Show - sailing to the edge of the world's largest TV studio, and stepping outside into the unknown world. Yet, like Truman, he's still being watched even out here.

"I think my next challenge is just personal stuff for me," he says, thoughtfully, towards the end of the trip. "Trying to get to a more open place in my life, like on a personal level." More peace, I suggest? "More peace, a place where…" he pauses to find the words "I want to have kids and stuff. I mean, I have a daughter, but I want to have a proper family and that environment, and be excited by that every day I wake up. It's sort of the challenge getting back to that place and letting go of attachments to that other world, finding a happy medium but being most fulfilled by the family stuff and that more simple life. I definitely have glimpses of it," he says.


I've been waiting to bust out the tape recorder all trip - to be honest - and find out what's on Kelly's mind these days. "He likes to give himself maximum space," Tom advises me early on. There are two boats, Indies Traders 1 and 2 - one for media and one for surfers - perhaps to give him just such space. Kelly comes across as stand-offish, private, though I've met him plenty of times before. I decide not to push it, not force myself on a reluctant subject. I watch him surf, nod a hello in the water once or twice each day, and I just sit back and enjoy the show. He's amazing. I don't think you can exaggerate his talent. They all rip, produce moments of pure poetry and power on the waves, but Kelly's on a mission of his own. He lays down some beautiful lines and soars through some hair raising tubes and, whenever the opportunity presents itself, he's hurling into enormous aerial flips at the end of waves, or off whatever suitable launching ramps appear. I've never seen anyone get so consistently high and remain in control and attached to their board, and stay composed through spins and inversions the way he does. He's regularly landing six foot high and wide 360 loops, with various twists - often on the back of the wave, because he's up there so damn long the wave passes him by. But he's working on that - just got to find the right bit of lip, to project himself out in the direction of the breaking wave.

So, I bide my time, enjoy the trip, wait for a window to appear or a dropping of the walls. I've just about given up, towards the end of the trip. When the decision is made that one boat has to go in early, and the other will wait out here for swell, it seems my chance is lost. I'm on Indies 2 heading back to port and Kelly's on Indies 1, waiting for the swell. The two boats are going to travel together through the day to another lefthander, where we'll be having a last surf before heading in, and my trip feels pretty much over, as that strange sense of vacuum that comes at the end of something envelopes me, and I start to contemplate my other life, back home. As the two boats lift anchor, for no apparent reason, Kelly jumps off 1 and swims to 2, perhaps to travel in greater comfort. I'm surprised when I find him lying on the couch reading a golf magazine. A window, I figure. Funny how, when you let go of things, the universe lets you have them.

I don't know how you imagine these surf star interviews take place. I've been doing this stuff now for 15 years, but I'm strangely nervous as I approach him, sprawled out on the couch, engrossed in how to improve his drive. "Excuse me, Kelly, I don't know if this is a good time, but I'd really like to ask you a few things about your surfing during the trip," I offer, as gently and politely as I can. I'm probably going overboard, but the guy seems so over the whole media thing, I fear he might just let fly and unload all that built up resentment and contempt for the great media machine in one great purging at the first site of a tape recorder. He swings lightly into a sitting up position with a smile and throws down the golf magazine. "Sure, no problem," he answers breezily. Easy as that.

Sorry to disappoint the voyeurs amongst you, but there are no questions about Pamela Anderson - we talk mainly about surfing and design, a bit about his hopes and ambitions for the future, and as much personal reflection as he willingly offers up. I can't pretend to have some amazing insight into the six-time world champ, but I can tell you a few things.

He's been surfing regularly with Christian Fletcher, that great aerial rebel of the late '80's and early '90's. He's also been getting a lot of inspiration from skaters like Tony Hawk. He's been getting into yoga, goes to two classes a week when he can, but would like to make it three. He honestly doesn't know if he's going to make a comeback to the pro tour. He's pulled a few aerial flips and is working on perfecting the manoeuvre and a number of spinning variations, like the rodeo clown. The ability to regularly land the futuristic moves at will appears to be not too far away. He wants to find new materials for his boards, so they don't break and are less toxic. He's inspired by the thought, "What can I do to leave this sport better than when I got here?" He wants to develop new fin designs because he reckons all our fins are letting us down. He wants to write surfing guides, to try to articulate the complex feelings and body mechanics that create good surfing, to communicate that to others and help them advance their own surfing. Most significantly, and most commendably, I reckon, he seems absolutely determined to wean himself off the constant stimulation and distractions of the pro surfing lifestyle and all its associated weirdness, like an addict coming off his fix, and be able to live a life of relative normality, appreciating the everyday. Which may prove his greatest challenge. The flips, in comparison to the great quest for self-knowledge and inner peace, seem downright simple.


"You just have a wave that projects you the right way, or you've got to come more vertically at it," he explains. "If you don't come vertically at it you can't really get the boost out away from the lip, so I don't know, it's just going to take some time really practicing. I don't think it's too far off . I think some guys are already pulling some flips. For me it's just going to take sitting there and doing it over and over again. Since I've started trying flips, I haven't had many good sessions where I've just tried and tried them. About six or eight weeks ago I had a session at Straddy where I was just trying and trying them and I pulled a back flip right off the bat. I got five waves in a row where I was trying them and almost making them and I'm going, oh, it's going to happen today for sure. And as soon as I thought that, the wind blew up and I got freezing cold and I had to go in."

What sort of waves are good for flips? "Straddy's really good for them. Macaronis is good, has a good shape to it. You want somewhere that's steep but not too hollow, that's got kind on a vertical face but it's not a gnarly wave. It might be hollow but it's kind of thin lipped. A beach break would be best for it, like an onshore beach break, kind of steep but not really barreling."

His understanding of technique, of the curves of waves, and the flight and hydro-dynamics of board and the effects of wind, are staggering. He has obviously thought about this stuff a great deal. "Sometimes I go do an air on an offshore wave and if I don't grab right away, the boards gone. But then you've got to start trying different airs. If you're going down the wave frontside and the wind's offshore you can actually hit and rotate off that wave, reverse. If it was a dive it would be like doing a Gayner, like a front flip, going back into the wind, to let the wind push the board against you. So, you've really got to think about the curves of the wave and the wind to.

"It just takes practice. If I had the right wave and a bunch of guys who were into doing aerials, I think in a week or two weeks time we would have pulled a flip off, if we just go out and try it everyday." Kelly's almost in awe of Tony Hawk and his technical and creative mastery on a skate ramp. "I was at this video game convention and Tony Hawk was there and they had a ramp set up and… these guys were doing the craziest stuff. They were doing these twist and flips and stuff and they knew exactly what was going on. I'm sure there was a time when no one had done a 540. Tony's done three 900's now or five or something. He's 33 or something, he was like a superstar in skating by the time he was 15." There are obvious parallels in their careers, and Kelly seems similarly gripped by determination to be expanding the possibilities for some years to come.

This trip was originally conceived as a tow-in trip, but when the swell didn't co-operate, Hawaiian Dave Kalama - the Jaws pioneer and top windsurfer - showed them how to use the straps and the speed off the skis to launch windsurfing style loops and flips with ease. "It's inspiring to watch Dave too because Dave can pull in, hit the lip and do airs with the straps on and he's got the rotations down, you know. And just on a normal board without straps he's not an aerial guy, but he's just real comfortable with it. He's used to a lot of speed and power on bigger waves, so when you have that you're less intimidated by things to try and pull them off."


What other aerialists inspire him? "Everyone's got their own approach. There's a lot of different guys. Ozzie Wright does a lot of different grabs and stuff. Christian Fletcher, I've been surfing with Christian a lot, and he tries all kinds of different airs. He's really inspired by Snowboarding and Skateboarding and Motocross. Timmy Curran's been doing, like, Superman airs where he actually pulls the board out from under him like that (he holds an imaginary board out at arms length) and pulls it back under him.

"Christian's into doing judo airs where he grabs and kicks his foot out. There's a whole lot. We, as surfers, take off on a wave and do a bottom turn, off the lip, cutback, look for the tube, and if that's all you're doing, you're not thinking about a mute or an indie or a stalefish or a judo or a superman air or some kind of flip. It's all about keeping that fresh in your mind."

So, how is Christian, and how do these unlikely surf buddies come to be hanging out together? "I think people really didn't understand Christian, myself included. I think Christian brought a lot of that on himself because he was just a rebellious kid and he was doing drugs and he didn't know what his direction in life was… He was probably ahead of his time. He definitely was, with trying shorter boards, and he was into just trying stuff, and people weren't. People were like, you've got to have more rocker and you've got to have narrower boards, and Christian went, 'Stuff that', you need a shorter, wider board so you can bust air. The guy calls me up daily and says, 'Let's go surf,' and its cool because Christian and I never hung out. We were like the opposite ends of the spectrum and now it's cool. We're like, let's go surf. He's good, he's solid. He wakes up at daybreak everyday and goes surfing, and he's super into it, snowboards and skates and wake surfs."

So, does all this free-form experimentalism, outside the competitive arena, make him ponder that age-old question - is surfing sport or art? "They're two different things. There's a difference between sport and art, for sure. Sometimes I want to go out and I don't want to be around anyone. I don't want to have people see me. I just want to experience what's happening. And other times I want to perform for people. And they are two different things and they are both valid. There's no right or wrong...

"There's other things that inspire me too, like technique and trying to put down on paper in words what you feel when you're surfing. What exactly is happening, so that someone can read it and before they even go out and surf they have an idea, oh, and if I get in that position can I be doing a better turn or a more efficient move or a more flowing style? So I think about that a lot."

Then there are his pet topics - fins, surfboard design and new materials. Get him started on the intricacies of fin design, foils and hydro-dynamics and you could be there all day. "I do a lot of designing, fin designing. I actually think that most of the fins we have suck. I think most of the fins that people are riding are failing them like most of the fins I've ever ridden in my life. Tom and I were talking about how intuition has played the biggest part in designing fins and stuff and that's good to a point. And we've tried so many different aspects and now it's got to be a little more scientific, you know. And I got here and broke three boards in my first three sessions, so I need better materials in my boards. That's a given. We've been riding the same materials for 30 years, more, and they're not good. It's almost like aeroplanes have been the same for 50 years and they need a change too, but everyone's comfortable because it makes money, that is what people are used to, this is the accepted thing, so we'll keep making the same equipment..."

Then there's the vexed question of flex, which has clearly been taking up a good portion of his mind power. "I've been thinking about flex a lot lately. People have always thought - is flex good or is flex not good? I think flex creates feel, but when I got here, like just grabbing my boards I felt like they were too flexy, too soft and giving too much away. And then they all broke. I felt like when I pushed there was too much give in them and I wasn't getting back the power I was pushing against. It was like, the more a board flexes, the more of your power you're giving away. It's like you're releasing it. Is that trampoline effect really stored energy? Do you get it all back? It's all feel, and it's all give and take. Like the old school guys (in tennis), McEnroe and Connors and those guys, everyone had loose strings, it was all about feel, putting English on the ball, all about spin and stuff. Nowadays they're all about power and they use tight strings. It's just the way the sport has gone, every sport, every thing you do has give and take. "I've thought maybe the perfect board would be one that's flat, the fins are sucked up into it, and when you go to turn it flexes to reveal the fin so you have more fin. I had this dream one day that would be the perfect surf board. Like a body board, it flexes, but it's geared to flex only to a certain point, where the tail can only flex to two and a half inches of tail rocker, and then you don't have the drag because the fins are sucked back up into the board. That would be pretty interesting.

"I just think generally things that are simpler work better. The more rocker, the more concave, the more stuff I have on the bottom of my boards, it doesn't work as good. I've asked Al (Merrick) to tone my boards down a lot in terms of the amount of concave, and I still felt like I was popping out of the water when I was doing turns."

If I were to venture a prediction into Kelly's future, it would be that he plays a pivotal role in introducing new, less toxic materials to surfboard production, and helps spread a new cleaner, greener consciousness in the board industry. He has a clear passion for the subject and an almost missionary zeal. "In an article Nick Carroll wrote once, he pointed out all the chemicals, an astounding number of chemicals you can't even pronounce, and what their effects are on the body and the environment and the breakdown of them and how long it takes. And one surfboard being glassed and how much resin is being wasted. I'm just guessing, but probably twice as much resin is used to make a surfboard than is necessary. So think of the number of surfboards that are made. Then, all the cloth that's wasted. It's astounding. It made me feel really guilty about how many boards I ride. It made me feel bad about being a surfer in a way. This guy was talking to us about how weak the cloth is that we use, and asked why don't we use a pre-wetted cloth and vacuum bagged boards. He just laughed, 'you surfers are stuck in the dark ages', and I think we are.

There's a common argument that the pro tour is to blame for the stagnation in surfboard design - that the best surfers and shapers in the world are so pre-occupied with the blinkered task of creating boards to win three-to-the-beach heats, true progress is stifled. Kelly's not having any of it. "I think that's a cop out. I don't think that's what the tour wants to be. I don't think that's the purpose of what the tour's trying to be, but because of the judging system that's what it becomes to people. But I definitely think there's a lot of room for improvement. I think it has become comfortable because there's a certain way of doing things and this works so well, we'll stick with it. I think there's going to be revolutionary changes to what the world tour is. I don't know if I feel like going over it right now.


"I've surfed a lot of my best waves in the midst of the ASP world tour. Maybe I've surfed my best waves, my best performances on waves on the world tour, so I'm not going to say that it stifled me. I think it's up to each individual to search that out. We have down time. You have to go out and find something else that inspires you. If you're not doing that, you're kind of just following what's happening, then no one really wants to be there, But when you're in the right frame of mind, it's really easy to be anywhere. You just view things a different way."

I ask him what the longest period is he's ever gone without having a surf. "Thirty five days," he replies quick as a flash. When was that? "'97 I think, doing music stuff with Rob and Peter King. I was in California, it was kind of cold, I didn't feel like surfing." Did he miss it? "I was a little antsy. I was real stoked to get back in the water. The first surf I had after that was in Hawaii, six foot north, onshore. I was so stoked to be out - it was nice, it was good in a way, to take time out. When you come back you have to work to get back to where you were and that's kind of exciting."

This reminds me of another great champion who walked away from the pro tour in a quest to make things feel new again, Mark Occhilupo. Kelly seems in search of that same freshness, the "beginner's mind" martial arts masters call it, when everything is new and a whole new world of possibilities opens up. Kelly knows the feeling.

"Like playing the guitar, sometimes I can't picture how I can improve. I'm not saying I'm good. Sometimes you get to this level where you say, okay, I'm playing my best for my level and it's not until you learn something else that you start to go, God, I don't know anything. You think, oh, I've played every chord progression, or whatever, and then you learn something else about the guitar or even about music. Even the best guitar players, this friend of mine, the best guitar player I know probably, he says, sometimes I feel like I know everything I can know about the guitar, and then all of a sudden I learn something else and I feel like I don't know anything. That's a real lesson in humility."

Is it challenging for him to try and feel that way about surfing, to cultivate the beginner's mind when it comes to riding waves? "I think sometimes, I definitely could say there are times when I've bought into sort of like..." he pauses. The Kelly hype? "Yeah, and then the nature of the world can just wake you up to that right away. It might be four or five minutes or it might be five months, but then sure enough something's going to put you back in your place and make you realise how much better life is when you don't think like that."

Is there much he misses about the tour? "Sometimes I miss that excitement of, like, the - not even so much the tour but just the first time doing something. That happened a lot on tour. I always had these goals. I was always trying to accomplish them and each time I accomplished them it was new."

So, where does he look for guidance in this quest to embrace the everyday, appreciate a simple life outside the pro surfing spotlight? Religion? Spiritualism? "I'm not very religious, most anything religious kind of turns me off. That's not to say I don't believe, it's just that organised religion kind of tweaks things for its own gain. It creates more lines than it erases. I think just looking at families and people I respect, looking at their families and the way they work. The way people I look up to live their lives, and spending time with them you start to pick up on a little bit of that.

"I love yoga - I'd like yoga to be like a three time a week thing for me. It hasn't been yet, but I know it.


needs to be. Sometimes I've gotten into it twice a week and I feel really good. Like anything in life, it needs to be maintained. Like surfing, your body, your relationships, everything in the world needs maintenance. I've got this friend at home who teaches yoga. She's really inspiring. She keeps on me. She'll call me - get to class today."

The trips nearly over. Everyone's saying their goodbyes. "I've got a little observation for you," Kelly announces out of the blue. This is it, I figure. The great pronouncement, the profound truth and insight into the meaning of life, this whole trip has been building up to. "Your back foot is kind of turned out. You need to turn your toes in more," he explains, seriously. Huh? Kelly Slater's been watching me surf? And wants to give me some pointers? I don't know if I'm flattered or embarrassed. "When your foot's turned out and you crouch you're loosing power," he demonstrates, showing how my knees go out in opposite directions when I bend them, like a bow legged cowboy. I cringe. He turns his back foot in. "This way, you open your whole body up to the line of the wave and when you crouch," he demonstrates again, and both legs bend forward in parallel, along the line of the stringer, like an alpine snowboarder, "the power is projecting you forward."

It's a simple thing, but opens up a whole discussion of body mechanics and surfing technique that also draws in Tom to the earnest forum. Kelly has me stand in a relaxed pose while he pushes me with one finger in the chest and the middle of my back, alternately, to see how my weight is balanced over my feet, while Tom walks around me muttering like a physician making a weighty diagnosis. These guys are all-time. They know things about surfing I've never even thought of - and they seem to enjoy nothing more than imparting this wisdom to a willing student. "Most surfers, their weight is back over their heels," Kelly explains. "You've got to imagine your weight is distributed over four points, at the heel and ball of both feet." He slouches into a kind of Tai Chi slouch to demonstrate, dropping his weight into his lower body, the upper body loose and free. I start to get a feel for it, and my legs seem somehow energised, more alive.

I get home from the trip and my regular world is subtly altered by the time on the boat. I go for a little beach break surf and begin trying to turn my back foot in, as advised, and can't believe how difficult it is to make such a small adjustment, but I begin to get the feeling of where it could take me. And, yes, there's that sensation - the beginner's mind - the sense that suddenly I don't know anything, that my whole surfing life up to this point has been a floundering beginning, that true communion with the ocean still lies ahead of me. And for that I'm truly grateful.

Kelly talked about getting into a more open place, of learning to give. I'd say he's getting there.

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