|
"This was
not your perfect surf, sunset, seven
seas adventure. It was real life."
- Capt. John McGroder.
Gaping tubes versus and gaping wounds.
Patto versus Elko. Pleasure versus pain
as the Quiksilver Crossing drops anchor
near a shallow righthand reef pass
that's exactly somewhere between Sydney,
Los Angeles, Santiago, Tokyo and
Fairbanks, Alaska. We don't even know
where it is, and maybe we don't wanna
know. Just look at what it did to the
Captain's foot! But then look at how
blue and perfect Jake's tube is! What do
we know? Surfing is one excellent
adventure and one thing taking a boat
across the massive Pacific proves is -
there's plenty of waves and adventures
still left in this world for all of us. |
|
This trip was supposed to be a
pre-Hawaii training trip for Mick
Campbell and Jake. Push-up fanatic Rob
Rowland-Smith put the boys through a
gruelling few days of workouts before
got so sea-sick he had to go home. Much
to the relief of the captain and the
cook. Micky C just got sick of waiting
for the sea and went too, then the swell
hit and Jake, Elko and little Phillip
Walters scored the waves in these
photos. Spewin' ay Mick?
The Captain's Leg. One tube equals 48
stitches and plane-ride home.
|
|
It was pretty ugly, pretty scary and it
happened on the last day of the trip.
Elko takes up the story - "Me and
Jake had been out all morning, just
getting pitted off our heads, and then
we went back to the boat to have some
breakfast, so the Captain and the Cook
went out. He took off on this six-foot
wave and when it got to the inside, the
thing was absolutely grinding, and I've
gone to Jake, 'Oh, I'm gonna get my
helmet'. That was the hugest wave I'd
seen on the whole trip. So I'm walking
off down the side of the boat to get my
helmet, and I'm still lookin' at the
Captain haulin' through this absolute
beauty, then the foamball caught him,
and I've just gone 'Holy Shit!' you
know, it looked like a heavy wipeout. So
I've bent down to get my helmet and I
heard him come up screaming". |
So Elko jumps in the water and brings
the Captain back to the boat, just as a
couple of reef sharks start sniffing
around. Back on the boat it hits them -
"Fuck, this is a pretty serious
injury and we're in the middle of fucken
nowhere ... I've had a lot of cuts, but
I've never seen anything like
that". ASL photographer Bill
Alexander and Elko strap his leg up, put
him in a fishing boat, and fang to
shore, where they've heard there's a
doctor. "We got to shore and the
Captain's freaking out a bit, I'm trying
to stay calm, but I'm freaking a bit as
well, so I piggyback him across the
coral and then down to this doctor,
who's in this dodgy little room with
hardly any equipment. The doctor unwraps
John's leg, lights up a cigarette, and
goes, 'What sorta shark was it'. But he
couldn't even touch it, didn't know
where to start, just pumped him full of
painkillers. So I piggyback him back to
the tinny, we get back out to the
Crossing boat and as we're going across
the channel, the surf's just perfect. I
mean ABSOLUTELY PERFECT, the best we'd
seen it the whole trip. Five wave sets
were hitting the reef, all just spitting
their guts out, and we're parked in the
channel looking right into the
pit."
Elko did a bit of time on his old man's
trawler as a kid, so he knew enough to
get a big boat moving, "...and as
we're leaving the pass, I said to the
Captain 'You fucken idiot, I told you
not to go too deep', and the poor guy's
layin' there bleedin to death."
They have to head to the nearest capable
doctor, who's four hours away, so Elko
and Patto take turns steering the boat
and trying to navigate and avoid running
aground. To pass the time they have a
chook lotto, betting on the amount of
stitches it'll take to sew the Captain
up. They eventually find the doctor,
Elko goes the hellman piggyback thing
again, and they stitch John up, he spend
the night there, the next day he gets
evacuated to the nearest slice of
civilisation and then a plane back to
Australia, where he spends a week in
hospital pumped full of antibiotics. Oh,
and the bet winner? Elko with 64
stitches. |
|
Elko's like a big grommet, he never
stops, he was always the first to surf
and always the last to get out, he made
the most of every day. He's hell to hang
out with because he really motivates you
to get off your arse and do stuff. Kong
was one of my heroes for sure, he was
the man when I was a grommet - big old
powerhouse. I still remember this one
photo that I love of him, it was a
Quiksilver poster of him doing this
backhand carve up north in WA about 10
years ago, It's sick. -Jake
|
|
Jake's a brilliant surfer, and I've been
watching his surfing closely for the
last couple of years. He's got so much
talent and, being a WA boy, he's so cool
in heavy waves - very stable and secure.
He was really charging on that trip,
getting foamballing tubes, and doin' all
the moves. I'm 35, so I was just trying
to keep up with him, and it was really
exciting for me. Jake is so amped, so
full of energy - he was frothing the
whole time on the boat. A great guy and
a great fisherman. -Elko |
The fish? Ten kilo Yellow Fin Tuna on 12
kilo line with the good old Rapala lure.
Elko got a huge Wahoo it must have been
about at least 20 kg and that was on the
same gear, it took about an hour to get
it in, but that was on a special lure -
the good old onion bag. If you've ever
made your own lure before you know that
the good old red onion bag never fails.
- Jake The right was absolutely cookin'
off its head. It was one of the best
reef passes I've ever been to. I've got
it photographed in my brain at the
moment, I can't get it out of my head.
You could only surf the wave on the
outgoing tide, they'd be really hard to
paddle into, but you just had to go. On
the incoming tide you couldn't surf it
cause you get a wave and you cannot
paddle back out. So for a couple of days
we pulled the jetski out and that made
it soooo easy. Bill Alexander and little
Walters were both going 'Fuck the
jetskis', but by the end of the day,
everyone wanted to get on the end of the
jet. We were just getting so many waves
with it. In an hour I caught about 50
waves. And towing in you could get so
much deeper. - Elko The right was so
much fun. We arrived one day and it was
small but still fun and after that it
just got better and better day by day,
we had to stay longer because we just
simply couldn't leave. Some of the
barrels were so hollow I was comparing
them to backdoor, very shallow but. It
wasn't that good for performance really
because of how shallow it was, if you
fell off when it was low tide you were
history, even on the high tide it was
still dangerous so we were taking it
pretty easy with most of us having to go
straight to Hawaii from there and didn't
want to come a cropper. - Jake. |
|
|
|
The Wahoo that Elko got, I actually
hooked the fish and was nice enough to
hand the rod to him because I had
already caught a yellow fin tuna. God
I'm a nice bloke, just ask me. - Jake
It's probably a trip that'll never leave
my mind. It wasn't the whole trip, but
there was just so much perfection at the
end. To just go and find waves that
haven't been surfed much before in such
a perfect location is just phenomenal.
For us as surfers to have the
opportunity to do that, it's just mind
boggling.The best thing the Crossing's
got going for it is that none of the
spots will be named, so the locals were
stoked to have us there, some of them
even came on the boat and hung with us.
They were stoked on Jake's surfing, they
just loved watching him surf. - Elko
The captain's Call On the seventh day
there was surf. There were also locals
and there was magic. A perfect right and
a perfect left. Sections of the right
broke over some shallow coral reef. The
water was clear as the sky. The locals
had grown up here and learnt to surf at
this spot. They were welcoming and full
of smiles. They had heard about the
Quiksilver boat and asked us not to name
this spot. If anyone who was there over
those three epic days ever mentions it
they doom this beautiful place. |
The magic was the local boys surfing out
of untouched stoke. They would stay out
till dark, cheering and hooting and
laughing. Then they would pile into one
dinghy and sing all the way home. They
shook each of our hands, offered us
food, and invited us to their homes.
They surfed boards with huge chunks
bitten out by the coral. Some had scars
on their hides. They sat on the Indies
Trader and watched between sessions, and
when the tide turned they went home to
rest.
Capt. John McGroder. |
|
|