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AGELESS
Written by Vaughn Dead
Transworld Surf Magazine


 

TOM CARROLL DESTROYS CENTRAL AMERICA AND RAISES SOME HEAVY QUESTIONS IN THE PROCESS.

Twenty years ago Tom Carroll won his first world title. Ten years ago he retired from full-time-professional competition. One month ago he was somewhere in Central America surfing with such undiminished power and style it flat out defied the physics of time. At 42, TC isn't aging with Dignity - he isn't aging at all

"When I go on a surf trip my personality changes quite radically. I enter this zone and become completely focused on making the most from every session. I really get into it."- Tom Carroll

With all the traveling he's done, it's hard to believe that before his recent expedition to El Salvador aboard the Quiksilver Crossing, Tom Carroll had never experienced Central America.

For a man who has travelled two-thirds of the globe more than two-thirds of his life, who could sail reef passes through the South Pacific and most of Indo blindfolded, an entire continent-and-a-bit of undiscovered, unsurfed Aztec gold must have pushed the TC froth-o-meter into overdrive

"It was a great trip," Tom whispered like some kid fresh in from the early, trying not to wake his parents, (in fact, his eight-month-old daughter had just dozed off on his lap and trying to talk about surfing while remaining calm and quiet turned out to be a dubious challenge). "We didn't get anything over six foot, but we did score a couple of really fun little tow-in sessions, and the place itself was extraordinary, unlike anywhere I've ever been.


Thomas Victor Carroll

The region made a big impact on Carroll, who was impressed by the colourful culture, olive-skinned natives, oppressive heat, and blustering winds of the region. A talented photographer with an insatiable thirst for knowledge, the dozen days he spent on the Indies Trader were over in a blink.

"It's hard to get that feeling out of my blood now that I've been there. To voyage through a part of the world I'd never experienced was exhilarating. We went to areas with hardly any surfers and came across some great set-ups. If I could, I'd like to be back there right now."


The local fruit market girl.

 


Strider Wasilewski

Carroll was accompanied on the trip by Strider Wasilewski, Todd Morcom, Quik Team Manager Todd Kline. Timmy Turner, and two Nicaraguan locals named Jimmy and Cailas. Although he was the eldest of the crew on board, TC had little trouble keeping up with the young guns.

"Surfing with those guys was great," said Tom. "The onshore would come on daily around 10:45am, so we'd get out there as early as we could. We were averaging four-hour sessions. Those guys were really blowing my mind performance-wise, especially the local kids, considering they grew up in places with no surf culture whatsoever. I pushed it as much as I could, though some of the tow-in sessions were very full on. Towing-in can be pretty ruthless on the body, and on a couple of days I think I may have over done it. I was feeling that way after a couple of sessions," he laughs

"I think I may have retired too early. At some point I could have had a break and possibly made a comeback. At the time I didn't want to listen to myself. I thought I could just push through it. It was a risky thing to jump off tour. It wasn't so bad when they had trials for every event, but when the format went two-tiered I figured it was too much of a gamble."

Each year Tom Carroll travels to Tavarua Island and competes in the WCT-rated Quiksilver Fiji Pro. His wildcard, more than a mark of respect from the company to one of its all-time legends, is also testament to Carroll's progressive and continued high level of performance in waves of consequence

Combine this with his recent exploits in Central America, and it's not unreasonable to suggest that if Tom Carroll were on tour now, he'd be a competitive threat in just about any conditions.

This continued evolution in Carroll's surfing raises an interesting question. Has TC managed to take some time off from his fourteen years grinding the circuit, is it possible he'd have nailed that third world title most believe he thoroughly deserved? Sure, it's easy to speculate in hindsight, but at least three of the all-time greats (Curren, Occy and now Slater) have enjoyed ultimate success following a "time-out."

Carroll believes his opportunity to recharge the batteries came and went with the world title climax at the 1988 Billabong Pro held in bone-crushing eight-to ten-foot all-time Pipeline.


TC with a show for the boys.

A white-hot favourite to win, TC scored an accidental paddling interference against Todd Holland, effectively surrendering the title to a late-storming Barton Lynch. To this day, the drama plays on TC's mind


Tom dropping in late at Pipe.

"I really wish I had achieved that third world title at Pipe in '88," said Tom, disappointment still evident in voice nearly fifteen years later. "It affected me physically and mentally for a couple of years after. In retrospect, maybe I should have had a break after that. Instead, I tried to push through. I didn't want to let it beat me, but it was a big loss."

Despite this, Tom's greatest triumphs came in the years that followed. A second Pipe Masters win in 1990, then a third in '91 that blew the lid off big-wave performances with one almighty snap in the pocket and a late drop into hell and back. His early-90s Pipe performances remain embarked as two of the greatest moments in surf history and the consolation isn't lost on the former two-time world champ.

"Pipe has given me the highest and lowest moments of my life, physically, competitively, and emotionally," said TC, who won his first Pipe Masters in '87, the day after finding out his sister had been killed in a car accident.

"My relationship with that wave is very special on so many levels."

As is the case with Fiji, Pipe is another venue where Carroll has received numerous invitations to compete at the highest level since his retirement. Surprisingly, though, the little goofy-foot who all but had his name engraved on plaques in the reef during the late 80's and early 90s is quick to decline.

"I won't surf another heat at Pipeline," he said with a tone so sure and shocking it nearly sent me reeling from my chair.

"There are too many variables," he explained.

" To surf Pipe well, you have to charge it, and you have to enjoy charging it. It requires a lot of practice and a lot of your time, which at present I'm not able to give. It has a very real danger element, which I have to take into consideration because I have a young family. And it's the last event of the year, and guys will possibly be going for a world title. I've been in their situation, and I don't know if I want to put myself in their way."
Then suddenly he paused.

"You know when I take a beating out there these days it tends to last a lot longer." He laughed a bit at this, then he stopped and added quietly, " A lot longer".

"I think if I'd been into the tow-in thing earlier there are things I could have done that I wouldn't do now. Jaws has a danger element that's intriguing, but Teahupo? I don't think I'll ever tow-in out there, not while I've got a family to look after."

No more Pipe comps, not sure about tow-ins at Teahupo, feeling the odd sore muscle after a day of being whipped into three-foot ramps…well, so what?


At the Quiksilver Pro in Fiji 2003

 


Towing in at Jaws, Hawaii.


An eye for detail

In a world where heroes are defined not only by actions but by the size of their heart and the true nature of their soul, Tom Carroll has proven time and time again that at five-foot-five he's still someone we call all look up to.Whether through his inspirational surfing or continually growing knowledge of the seas he has plenty more to offer.

" I still have a lot to achieve in surfing," he said as we finished up our conversation.

"I love to work on equipment, refine it, and investigate how to get the most from it. When I'm surfing, I try to be as creative as I can, because I get so psyched on seeing where surfing is going and examining the path it takes to get there. What the kids are doing now excites me beyond belief and I'd like to think I can offer them advice and help them to go even further. But what I'd like most is just to be surfing more. I'm hopeless, when the surfs up, I just gotta get out there. Its tough with an eight-month-old baby, but if its breaking, I really gotta go."

Anyone want a lucrative baby-sitting job?

Tom Carroll Timeline

1961 - November 26, Thomas Victor Carroll is born.

 

1969 - Age eight, scores and rides his first board - a Coolite.

 

1977 - Wins the prestigious Narrabeen Pro Junior.

 

1978 - Wins the Australian Junior Title.

 

1979 - Age 18, joins the IPS World Tour. Makes the final of Pipe Masters in his first Hawaiian season.

 

1980 - Wins his second pro junior.

 

1982 - Finishes year in the final ratings. Does not fall from the top five until 1991.

 

1983 - Starts the year with three wins and goes on to win his first world title, ending compatriot Mark Richards' four-year run as king.

 

1984 - Wins second world title, holding off a late charge from Shaun Tomson.

 

1985 - Boycotts the South African leg of the tour as a protest against apartheid. Subsequently loses the world title to Tom Curren.

 

1987 - Win his first Pipe Masters after finding out the day before the final that his sister has been killed in a car accident.

 

1988 - Loses hope for a third world title after paddling interference at Pipe.

 

1989 - Signs a five-year million-dollar contract with Quiksilver become the first surfer in history worth seven figures.

 

1990 - Wins second Pipe Masters while Kelly Slater watches and hoots from the beach, "Right on, Tommy, right on!"

 

1991 - The greatest turn ever. TC rips, tears and gouges his way to an unprecedented third Pipe Masters title. His ruthless attack best summarized by a snap in the pocket hailed to this day as one of the greatest manoeuvres ever and a late drop in the final that was simply impossible - of course, he made it.

 

1993 - Retires from competition at age 32.

 

1995 - Kirk Willcox writes Tom's biography The Wave Within.

 

1996 - Fathers three daughters, tours the world, continues to surf with the enthusiasm of someone half his age, and acts as global ambassador for Quiksilver.


Somewhere in Indonesia.

 


Seeking relief from the sun.

 


The famous thighs and boardies.

 

 

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