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Trip 1
The Crossing...” Life is either a
daring adventure or nothing at all”
Helen Keller
I really don’t know where to start its
all a dream really, one that I’ll
carry with me for the rest of my life.
One thing I do know is that its the real
thing (what dreams are made of) not just
another surf video staged to look like a
dream. I watch the footage and it makes
me want to cry. The only negative thing
I can say about the boat is that
everyone can’t go on it. There’s
very few times in our lives when we get
to experience what it is to be alive
where you can live moment to moment
(pardon the cliche) from one impulse to
the next. I swear time doesn’t exist
when you’re out there, at least it
didn’t for me. I’ll just tell you
like I remember…how it was. |
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LA picking shells, (she always finds all
the good ones). Fruity umbrella drinks.
Hours in our cabin with Sarah (the
C.D.). Horny’s “death in a cup”
coffee. VK eating all the Papaya and
chocolate and tandem surfing with Melvin
Puu (can you believe he got me over his
head?). Wearing clothes underwater.
Surfing in black pants. Late nights in
the galley. Getting in and out of the
tinney in pouring down rain and wind.
Perfect waves, just us five girls.
Diving with the fishes, exploring the
reefs. Playing like we were mermaids,
dancing on the beach. Surfing till dark.
Paddling toward the boat, the delicious
smell of dinner cooking calling us home.
Surfing some of the best waves in the
world, with the best surfers in the
world. I have a feeling that this trip,
with its ‘friendships shared, and the
memories made’ will be with me always,
and make me smile. Who could ask for
more? Get out there and start living,
you never know how much longer it is all
going to last.
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