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Saturday 29th
January 2005. Day 1
I slowly opened my
eyes to see out this little circle
window the most amazingly blue water.
When I got the call two days before I
left if I wanted to go I was shocked,
now being here I'm amazed. I would never
dream of being here.
Frank the captain
said he had to pick up the boys from
fishing. I asked to go and said sure
with a big grin. I should not of asked.
It was like fall training. You have to
stand and I was holding on for my life,
he flew through 3-foot chops. I was
bouncing off everything and slipping all
over. On the way back it was not as bad
but still harsh.
The rest of the day we did not do much
until dinner. We went out on the island
had some drinks and went to this local
club. We showed up at the club and we
were the only light skinned people. I
could tell some of the boys were scared,
but all I wanted to do was go dance and
have fun. Most of the boys just hung
outside. I'm from Venice I'm used to
dark people, they all thought I was
going to get us killed. It was mellow
the people were nice, I just treated
them how I wanted to be treated, they
were all cool. We hung out and danced
for a little bit. Then came back to the
boat and had some drinks and told
stories. Slowly one by one everyone
started going down. Dana and I were the
last standing. We talked for about an
hour and then Dana threw in the towel at
around 3:00am. I was the last one to go
to bed.
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Sunday30th
January 2005. Day 2
"Justin if
you want food I'd get up"
said Miguel I roll over and didn't
want to say anything. 5 minutes
later " Justin the waves are
good you might want to eat"
said Tyler. I jumped up hit my
head on the roof and was on it.
They all looked at me, now they
know how to get me up no matter
what. Say the waves can be
actually ridden and I'm on it. I
was amped to get in the water; I
had 2 boards waxed, fins in,
leashed up and had some food,
coffee and water. But I didn't
really feel the night before I was
too amped, but Dana on the other
hand was hurting thanks to me. I
had him drinking all night with
me. He was letting it all out in
the water hitting the reef and
all. I was having so much fun on
the rights. I was getting little
tubes, carves and all kinds of
things, trying superman's but the
offshore wind made them hard. We
surfer for about 3 and half hours,
came in had lunch. I took a little
4-hour nap, and missed the anchor
fight they couldn't get it up and
the entire time I was asleep. I
got up and saw everyone was all
greased up. My back was so sun
burnt it was burning all day.
After dark the other surfers
showed up Nicolas and Jose from
Portugal, Jack Perry from Aus,
Richie from NZ. They are all a
bunch of cool guys. We had some
dinner talked a little and went to
sleep.
Monday 1st
February 2005. Day 3
It was a mellow
day today and the waves were flat,
so we went to a little Island with
Jeff. The little island was cool;
it had all kinds of shells and
good things. While walking
around became friends with a
lizard that was super rad. The
lizard would just sit on my hand;
he kicked it like that the entire
time on the island. When we
decided to go back the lizard
didn't want to get off me.
When I would put him on the sand
he would jump back on me, he even
ran under my watch. Once we got
back on the boat we thought we
would play some cards. Trying to
play cards when everyone had a |
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Justin
in the blue room.
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Styling off the top.
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Knuckles
awoken by the horn.
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different rule is hard,
but fun. The little pirate (Nick) was so
funny cause he had no clue how to play.
Kiwi (Richie) was just lost in space,
Jack got mad when he thought he won and
said I was cheating when he was looking
at my cards the entire game. Frank the
captain and I were the only true people
in the game.
Tuesday 2nd February
2005. Day 4
Day 4 was a day for
just sitting around doing nothing. I
slept most of the day because the waves
were shit and I already watched to many
movies. We all just talked all day and
did nothing. Dana had to go back to work
so he took off. I was bummed when Dana
had to go he is cool and if it weren't
for him I'd never be on the boat. After
he left we ate dinner talked for little
and went to sleep.
Wednesday 3rd
February 2005. Day 5
Today was really the
Crossing. We had to cross over to
another island and it was solid. We were
hitting 7-10 foot swells and the boat
was just being bounced it was rough. I
decided to sleep cause it was a 10 hour
trip and I knew I'd get sick. It was
hard to sleep when the stuff in your
room would go flying all over. When we
got there it was solid but windy so we
surfed a little beach break for a
little, just to get wet. Oh yeah Jack
got seasick and let it go on the way
over to the Island. After our surf we
ate dinner and went to sleep.
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Justin and the 'Portugese Grom'
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Thursday 4th
February 2005. Day 6
We started off
the morning surfing at some reef
that was solid, but real shitty
and none of us could get any
waves. We all decided to go to the
beach break and get a few, it was
fun. After we surfed we had to
walk back to the boat. It took
about an hour to walk back and we
saw and went through a lot of
shit. We saw donkeys and a horse
and had to paddle through this
stinky lagoon. But it was well
worth it because we made it and it
made the crossing more than
sitting on the boat with no waves
and that's why were here to live
each day as an adventure and have
fun. We made it back to the boat
had lunch and then to a new little
island. The island had some big
rays that let us touch them. After
we hung with the rays we went to
the other side of the island. We
saw some waves breaking out on
this reef, so we paddled out. When
we got out there it was real fun a
good little right. We surfed for a
little while until the tinny
started acting up, so we went back
and had dinner. After dinner I had
to slip down the stairs to give
the boys one last laugh before
bed.
Friday 5th
February 2005. Day 7
It was another
day with no surfing. That tells,
as we will be watching lots of
movies. After lunch we went to
swim and take photos with the rays
on our little island. It was
rad; we saw a cool shark just
wandering around the reefs.
When we came back to the boat we
all got ready to go watch the
Super Bowl at this local
bar. Just as I though my New
England Patriots won. It was a
good game very close. Kiwi (Richie)
and the little pirate (Nick)were
trying to get onto |
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Searching.
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Stoked.
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Backhand attack.
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the girl working
there. After the game the girl
gave us a ride back to the boat.
We all just talked for a bit then
went to sleep
Saturday 6th
February 2005. Day 8
We woke up to the
sound of the motor. We were going
to the good reef break. When we
got there it was windy and crap.
So that told us we had to surf the
little beach break. The beach
break wasn't as good but fun. We
surfed for about 3 hours. Then we
had lunch and went into town for
some candy and for some to use the
Internet. At night we had dinner
watched a movie and went to sleep.
Sunday 7th
February 2005. Day 9
The waves sucked
and I was so sunburnt that my back
felt like it was in a fire. Jack
and I watched a movie and talked
about everything. At around 4:00pm
we all went to shoot photos before
dark. The waves were the same as
the last few days. After surfing
we walked halfway back but it was
nothing like our walk of wonders.
We got back to the boat ate dinner
watched a movie and went to sleep.
Monday 8th
February 2005. Day 10
Today was our
last day on the boat, and the
waves sucked. We left the bay
where we were at to come back to
the main island. We got to see
some whales jumping and having
fun. Then we fished for a |
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Rescuing the tinny.
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little and caught 3
Barracudas and one Mahi Mahi. I started
feeling a little sea sick so I laid
down. Then we got to a little right and
everyone went surfing but me. After all
that we just kicked back and watched
movies. I just want to say it was great
trip even if the waves were crap.
Surfing, hanging out, meeting new people
and seeing more amazing things in the
world is what life is all about. I just
want to have fun.
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