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Trip 3
DAY #1
Tuesday 20 April
It was an early, unexpected start from
the hotel. We had word that the swell
was up and the boat wouldn't be in port
until this afternoon because the boys on
the boat wanted one more surf. I didn't
mind, a sleep-in sounded great after the
night before, going completely mad at
Matt Hoy's bucks night in the middle of
Sydney. It wasn't to be. Horny (Jeff
Hornbaker) was banging at our doors at
about 7.30am, yelling and screaming,
"Lets go, come on you little
Aussies, the swell's up and we want to
get a surf this afternoon." So like
headless chooks we ran around and got
all our stuff together.
About an hour later we were down at the
harbour loading the boat up. About six
hours later we were at one of the best
setups a surfer's ever going to see. A
bay like setup with a left at one end
and a right at the other end. It was
only small but super fun. I started at
the left only to find out it was only
about six inches deep so Martin said
later that I was most probably the first
one ever to catch a wave at that spot. I
surfed with Todd Morcom, Danny Wills,
Lee Winkler and Strider Wasilewski.
Danny got the barrel of the session. It
was about two to three foot with the odd
bigger wave coming through.
Meanwhile, Mick Campbell and Wayne Dart
were surfing the left which looked like
a lot of fun as the tide had come up. We
surfed until dark and everyone was
stoked, especially Todd Morcom and
Strider Wasilewski who were meant to get
off the boat when we got on but stowed
away for a couple of days. I was pretty
bushed so after a bit of night fishing I
was off to hit the hay, so looking
forward to the next day I almost
couldn't sleep.
DAY #2
Wednesday 21 April
I woke up looking out the porthole in
mine and Mick's cabin to see the water
moving, which meant we were on the go.
The swell had dropped. The left and
right, which we surfed yesterday, was
hardly breaking so it was off to this
other right that we passed on the way
that picked up a little more swell. We
arrived only about half an hour later
(God knows how long I slept for), to
find a righthander about five to six
foot, a little bit of cross chop but
still pretty smooth. So it was bacon and
eggs on toast then out for a surf.
The sun is that hot you've got to put on
10 layers of sunscreen and wear long arm
rashies. I already had major sunburn
from the first day. I only surfed for
about 30 minutes. All the boys seemed to
have fun with Micky C getting the barrel
of the day.
I had a freedive when all the boys were
out surfing, taking Martin's five foot
speargun just in case I ran into some
unfriendly creatures. The reef was alive
with everything - the most colourful
fish I think I'm ever going to see. I
swum over to the boys sitting in the
lineup. Until this point the only big
fish that I had seen was a barracuda
about three foot long. I hung in the
lineup watching the boys take off from
under the water. If you ever get a
chance to do that, do it, you won't be
disappointed. It was amazing seeing
through the wave and the way the
surfboard moves through the wave but it
was shortlived because I spotted a shark
about 10 metres away which meant I was
out of there. It was only about three or
maybe four foot long. I think it was a
black-tipped reef shark. Nothing to
worry about - well that's what I told
myself. I told the boys sitting in the
lineup and no one seemed to give a
stuff, but I can tell you that the 100
metres to the boat seemed like 1,000.
The afternoon was taken up by fishing in
the tinny. Danny Wills, Jeff Hornbaker
and myself all caught a barracuda each,
along with a couple of other fish that
we released. Nothing worth bragging
about anyway. The wind had come up more
onshore so it was back to the mother
ship (Indies Trader). It looked like a
bit of weather was coming in so the
mother ship moved to a sheltered bay for
the night. I did a little bit of fishing
before dinner, catching a huge red fish
which no one had seen before. I gave it
to the Indonesian crew members for
dinner who seemed happy with it. Then it
was a couple of VBs with dinner and off
to bed hoping for swell.
DAY #3
Thursday 22 April
I awoke pretty early only to be
disappointed to see the swell had all
but disappeared. It was one to two foot.
I didn't surf. The call was to go back
to port, fuel up and drop the two
stowaways (Todd and Strider) off and
make a move for our next destination.
We watched a movie to try and fill in
the six hours of boating time. It only
lasted two hours. Horny hooked up with a
marlin for about 10 seconds which got me
excited for about the same length of
time. So in other words it was a long
trip back to port.
We arrived in port at about 4pm and
stocked up with food but unfortunately
we couldn't get fuel until the morning.
It was a beautiful afternoon and we
didn't want to waste it so we got pissed
in the sun on the back deck. Some funny
old stories came out and we all seemed
to be having a great time. About 9
o'clock comes around and some of the
boys decide it's time to go to town
(town being all of about five
buildings). I decide to stay on the boat
and watch a movie with Danny. Halfway
through the movie the weather changes,
it starts to rain and the wind picks up.
We didn't think anything of it. Then
about half an hour later the boat starts
up, so Danny and I get up to see what
the hell's going on, only to realize the
Indies Trader has been dragging the
anchor and we were only metres away from
cleaning up two other boats not even
half the size of the Trader. With some
fancy driving in the tinny by the cook
Paul and some great captaincy by Martin
we missed the boats and no damage was
recorded. Didn't get to see the rest of
my movie.
DAY #4
Friday 23 April
I tried to sleep in thinking it was
going to be a long day of travelling. I
was up and out of bed at about 8am. All
the boys were on the back deck already
having breakfast and laughing about last
night's stories. A few of the boys had
gone back to shore looking for action
and let's just say the rest is Crossing
history.
The time is 3.30pm and we're on the way
to have a dive on an old war wreck. The
ocean we're travelling over is called
"Iron Bottom Sound" because of
all the boats that sank in World War II.
The reason why we're going for a dive is
because we can't get to waves today. So
we're going to go for a dive then motor
all night to get to this lefthander that
Strider and Todd surfed last week. Bruce
rang today letting us know about a 20 to
30 foot swell that was between New
Zealand and NSW. All the boys are so
excited. We better get swell! It's
forecasted to get here in two days,
sick!
I slept whilst the boys had a dive. I've
never been scuba diving before and I
don't think diving at 120 feet for my
first time would have been a good idea.
Captain Martin said we should have waves
tomorrow so I'm off to bed early, only
two VBs tonight. Can't wait for
tomorrow! We're motoring all night so we
will be at the surf break on dusk.
DAY #5
Saturday 24 April
A long boring day today looking for
surf. The swell still hasn't hit. We
motored all day, didn't even get a fish
on the way. However there always seems
to be some form of entertainment on the
Indies Trader. We climbed the rope to
the tinny whilst motoring which was
pretty hairy as well as pretty silly
because if you fell you would've been
knocked off by the tinny and then hooked
up by a lure, but apart from that it was
a good upper body workout that everyone
needed.
We arrived at some place for the night
at about 4pm. Martin decides to bust out
one of his 1200 two-seater Yamaha
jetskis. All the boys start to foam at
the mouth. It takes about half an hour
to get the thing off the Trader then
Martin fangs around on it for about five
minutes with me on the back and then
packed it up. All the boys were pretty
disappointed, including me, but if I'd
paid a lot of cash for it I wouldn't
want little shits stuffing it up either.
The highlight of my day was catching
about 10, well maybe five or six nice
snapper for dinner. Off the boat I was
doing a bit of night fishing and then
last cast caught a nice black-tipped
reef shark about three foot long. Also
topping off the day was a superb roast
lamb for dinner ... Praying for swell!
DAY #6
Sunday 25 April
Still no swell. We've been motoring,
checking waves all morning and at 12
noon we have a decision to make: to hang
and see if the swell arrives or motor
on. However, the next surf spot is 24
hours away so we roll the dice and off
we go, another 24 hours motoring. Lucky
I'm enjoying the whole boat thing
otherwise it could drive you crazy.
Still no big fish. We've been hit a
couple of times - just enough to keep me
interested. I'm spending most of my time
reading and mixing mini discs and
watching the fishing reels praying for a
big old fish to have a go. Also spend a
lot of time just hanging out with the
boys talking it up and of course the odd
VB has gone down - all in the spirit of
a good boat trip I tell myself. It's
3.50pm and it seems that I've run out of
things to write about. The ocean's
pretty rough and there seems to be swell
so here's hoping tomorrow's going to be
cranking. Middle of the ocean, not one
bit of land to be seen and we just saw
one of the best sunsets you're ever
likely to see. It was amazing. It made
my day.
DAY #7
Monday 26 April
Last night was long and rocky. We
motored all night. Shit was flying
through the cabin that I am sharing with
Mick like we were on the moon or
something. Nevertheless I had a pretty
good sleep. I awoke fairly early to see
Horny and Mick manning the fishing rods.
On the horizon I could see our new
destination and a big old volcano just
to the left of the island that we're
going to. Captain Martin busted out the
island book this morning to read up some
information about where we're going and
it said the south side of the island
hasn't been explored since 1898. There
was no information at all which makes it
all the more interesting; let's just
hope we can find some waves.
The fish that got away. Just after
breakfast Horny hooks up with a baby
marlin which was about five foot long.
Horny put in a pretty good fight for
about 20 minutes then the fish jumped,
the hooks got spat, and we were all a
bit bummed that we didn't get to have a
closer look. Well that was bloody
amazing. As soon as I had written the
word, look, one of the reels went off
and it was a bigger marlin than the last
time. Mick got the pleasure and pain of
winding the sucker in. It took about 10
minutes and Horny said it was a good 150
lbs/70kg and it was about six foot long.
I got some great video action. It was a
good release as well which made it all
so much better.
Motored for the rest of the day looking
for waves but there's no swell and no
setups so we keep on going. We caught
some great fish on the way. Well
everyone but me that is. I passed some
of my time by making some fishing line
rings. I did a little bit of night
fishing and all I got was a stinking
shark that took all my tackle, so that
was the end of that. The highlight of my
day, besides all the fishing, was
watching Captain Martin navigate his way
into this lagoon in the dark using the
radar, GPS and the echo sounder; it was
unreal to watch a master at work. Four
VBs later and some great dinner I was
off to bed.
DAY #8
Tuesday 27 April
Well where do I start. Awoke pretty
early, I'd say about 7am, to find about
three or four local guys talking to
Captain Martin. That's where my
incredible day started. These guys had
paddled about four kilometres to get to
our boat, but I bet it's not everyday
they see a bright orange and blue boat
pass through their waters. The call was
to go and check the village out; they
had some hell story to tell about some
guy getting taken by a crocodile so it
sounded pretty good.
So off we chugged, it wasn't that far
but I didn't have to paddle it in a
dugout canoe. The whole village came out
on the shoreline to greet us, it was
unreal. We jumped into the tinny and off
to shore we went. When we arrived they
all insisted that we shake their hands,
so about 50 people later I get my hand
back. Then it was off for a guided tour
of a village. It was amazing. All these
people had to worry about was feeding
their families. Life seemed simple. It's
like what you see on the movies. They
have a few chickens running around, the
odd pig tied to a tree, and their veggie
garden. No lights or electricity, just
the good old bush fire to cook. No law
besides tribal law, no taxes, nothing to
worry about besides where their next
meal is coming from. Well, that's how
they lived.
Getting to this story about the
crocodile. It was about 18 months ago
that a man and his wife sailed into
their village. They were from Sweden.
They anchored up and the guy jumped
overboard to make sure the boat would be
safe, as you do. So he checked it out
and everything was sweet. He sees this
coral reef only about 50 metres from the
boat so off he went to have a little
look, as you do on holidays - you know
check everything out. Little did he know
there was an eight foot crocodile
waiting for him; it grabbed him and
before he knew what was going on there
were about six small crocodiles coming
in for the kill. The local villager told
the story like it was yesterday. Anyway
his wife saw the whole goddamn thing,
poor woman. With all respect the locals
laid the man to rest with a beautiful
headstone made of wood. It had carved
into it a picture of his boat, his name,
dates and some other personal details.
That all happened about one kilometre
from where we anchored. Pretty good
story if you ask me.
After lunch, Captain Martin busted out
the jetski again because the locals were
spinning out about it. The first time
Martin took off the whole village
screamed and roared. They simply
couldn't believe it. Then we did a bit
of skurfing to show off. All the people
would gather on the shoreline and we
would whiz past and spray them with the
surfboard. They would all scream and
laugh. It was amazing. The best part of
my day was when five kids, all in this
small dugout canoe, paddled out to the
boat to say "hi". They
couldn't speak much English. Well they
didn't speak anyway but we gave them all
a Coke each and I tell you you've never
seen such stoked grommets in all your
life. You couldn't take the smiles off
their faces with a baseball bat. It made
me feel good that something so little
meant so much to them.
DAY #9
Wednesday 28 April
It was up early this morning for me,
6am. Thought I might as well put the
fishing lines in. Well we travelled all
night so we could get to the next island
and low and behold no waves again. I now
know why this is called the Crossing!!!
Anyway 6am and I'm up exercising on the
back deck until about 6.45am when bang
the rod goes off and I'm there in a
flash. Five minutes later a 50lb wahoo
was landed; well 17lb but never let the
truth get in the way of a good story! So
I'm stoked for the rest of the day no
matter what happens. It turned out to be
a great day for fishing. Mick and Wink
also caught large wahoos, Horny hooked a
tuna and we had about 10 other hits that
didn't get landed so it was a great day
for fishing.
Reef Check: It was lunchtime Reef Check
and we all got to go scuba diving. It
was the best thing I've done for so
long. Eighty foot deep, it's the most
insane feeling being at the bottom of
the ocean. The water was so clear, fish
everywhere, it was unreal. That also
made my day. We ate my wahoo for lunch,
deep fried with chips, and we ate Mick's
wahoo for dinner, cooked on the BBQ on
the back deck. A few VBs later and we
were wondering what to do so we watched
a movie, Godzilla. I would have to say
the shitiest movie ever. Motoring all
night again. Given up hoping for waves;
it's all about big fish and scuba
diving.
DAY #10
Thursday 29 April
Motored all night again.
I was up early again, 5.15am, doing
my exercises and watching the fishing
reels. Didn't get long to fish because
we pulled into port to clear customs.
7.30am: Waiting for customs to come out
and see the boat. Hope it doesn't take
all day.
Bullshit sunrise this morning!
Well we stayed all day. The older guys
went for a dive on this wreck called
"President Coolidge". The
thing is as big as the Titanic. It's the
biggest accessible wreck in the world so
we're staying overnight so we can have a
dive in the morning. I can't wait.
There's meant to be this huge 200kg
groper that lives there and the locals
feed it and pat it so I hope we get to
see him tomorrow. I think his name is
Boris, I'm not quite sure.
We did some bullshit night fishing
tonight. Mick got a couple of big fish
and I got a couple too. It was great
fun. The highlight of my day would have
been the sunrise this morning - it was
incredible.
DAY #11
Friday 30 April
Well a little recap on last night. Mick,
Martin, Paul and I stayed up until
3.30am. Captain Martin and Paul the cook
told us some hell stories over a few VBs.
They both have seen some life I can tell
you.
Anyway, slept in until 9am. Not feeling
the best. Darty, Don King, Dave (crew
member) and Horny had already been for a
dive on the wreck. Darty said it was
bullshit and he even got to see Boris.
Well that was it, it was the hungover
dog's turn. Martin, Paul, Mick and I all
went for a dive. It was awesome, a
billion fish everywhere, every colour,
every size. I didn't get to see Boris
which I was a bit pissed off about but
it was a great experience anyway. Not
bad for my second dive ever, diving on
the largest accessible wreck in the
world - I was stoked.
After the dive it was time to push on
towards the town where we fly out in two
days' time. No fish, only a couple of
hits, but I drove the boat with some
help from Captain Martin which was fun.
Just before dark we got to this wave. It
was a carbon copy of Haleiwa. Mick,
Darty and I surfed for about half an
hour. It was great to get in the water.
Before we knew what was going on there
was a group of about 20 locals on the
reef yelling and screaming at every wave
we rode. It was insane! I think it was
the first time they'd ever seen someone
surf before.
Then it was back to the boat in the
dark, shitting ourselves at the thought
of sharks. We were all so stoked to get
some fun, three to four foot waves. Had
a great big feed then a quick look at
some of the home video that I've been
taking. Right now it's 7.55pm and I'm
bushed so I'm off to bed. We're motoring
all night so we get to port in the
morning. There should be some waves
there so I can't wait.
DAY #12
Saturday 1 May
We arrived in port pretty early, about
7am. There seemed to be a little bit of
swell so it was off to look for waves.
We checked about 10 different reefs
before coming to this little left that
we surfed. It was about three foot with
the odd bigger wave coming through. It
was nice and glassy when we first got
out and we got a couple of barrels. Then
the wind came in and the tide started to
drop so we were out of there. Packed up
the Indies Trader and headed into town
to pick up our plane tickets to begin
the journey home.
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