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Trip 6
DAY 2
June 5
Woke up to the noise of the engine
and a light rocking. We had motored all
night to a spot where we stopped for a
surf. It was about 3 foot and lumpy but
fun, there were a few barrels down the
inside. I surfed for a while and got
smashed on an inside shelf, on the
smallest wave. I dinged my nose and slit
my wrist but was OK.
Sailed on and arrived at our next
destination. We relaxed and had a look
around at the marina. We had a chat to
some locals and then headed back to the
boat for some dinner. Everyone was keen
to go back on shore and check it out so
we all headed to the centre of the town.
I remembered many things that as a child
I had seen, it hadn’t changed much in
17 years since I was last there, (what I
could remember of it). After a few hours
we went back to the boat and went to
bed.
DAY 3
June 6
Woke to the engine yet again. All
passengers were onboard including Ed
Lovell, the marine biologist, who is an
expert on coral and head of the Fijian
surfing Association.
We motored out to a spot where we
surfed. The conditions were fun 2 to 3
foot perfect, little barrels and good
for turns. I surfed for about two hours.
Everyone was on the Indies Trader when I
realised that if I didn’t start
paddling fast they would have been taken
out past me in the light rip. Luckily I
made it on board, quickly showered and
we were off again to our next
destination.
DAY 4
June 7
Up early.
The wind was blowing very hard and we
were anchored off the reef on the
topside of an island. We could see some
waves breaking up further so we motored
around the corner to find some very
rough spray and wind. We sailed further
to find a harbour however there were no
waves to surf and it was too rough to
move on anywhere else. So we anchored
and Martin and Ed went into the nearby
village to drink some kava with the
local chief. Meantime we all sat down in
the wheelhouse and watched a movie.
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Sailed around the island and around the
lagoon looking for surf spots. After
this it was time for dinner. Paul
Paterson and I stayed up late fishing,
catching small skipjack so that we would
have something to use for bait. Went to
bed about 1:30 am.
DAY 5
June 7
Up early. Sailed through the lagoon,
the way we had come in, looking for
waves but it was too onshore and messy
to tell so we decided to go on to the
next island.
Out we went into the swell. It was rough
and the wind was strong but we charged
it anyway. Elko was fishing and got a
big hit on the trail line. He started
winding but about 30 metres away from
the boat it jumped and I saw the hook
lure come out of its mouth, it looked
like a marlin but Captain Martin said it
was a sailfish.
We reached the next island after about
two hours sailing. Saw some setups but
nothing too good. Sailed down to what
looked like the harbour. Here we found a
left about 5-6 foot and going square.
Everyone was excited but there were two
surfers already out there.
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We had some locals come out in a little
boat to meet us and show us the way into
the harbour to anchor. The island looked
so beautiful. Where we anchored had a
little sand bottom about 30 feet deep
and the water was aqua in colour. We
anchored, got our boards ready and went
out for a surf. I was a little hesitant
at the start because I didn’t want to
hurt myself first up but it was OK.
Everyone was getting barrelled and every
now and then a bigger one would come in
and double up. It looked a little scary
but ended up not even barrelling just
running down the reef.
Had dinner another great meal and off to
bed. |
DAY 6
June 9
Slept in. Got up for some fruit salad
and toast for breakfast.
Renan and I went out in the tin boat for
a surf and Mick Campbell and Elko
returned. Tide was a little low at the
start and the inside section on the
small ones were going dry but you could
get the deepest little tubes and if you
held on it would spit you out, if not
you would end up in knee deep water. As
the tide came up, the wave became longer
and you could take off deeper. Surfed
for about three hours and in that time I
had so many barrels. I started getting a
little cocky, then on one I took off and
it got me bad. Injury received: a hole
on the bottom of my foot with scratches
up the side and scratches up my elbow,
kept on surfing for a bit but decided it
was bleeding too much and if I kept on
surfing it wouldn’t stop. Also I had
crushed the nose of my board and thought
I should fix it before it let too much
water in. So I headed back to the boat,
just in time, as lunch was ready.
Afterwards I cleaned up my wounds and
started fixing my board.
Went for a snorkel and did some reef
checks with Ed Lovell. This section of
reef was so nice, it had every kind of
Coral and lots of fish, even Ed said it
was a great section, as good as it gets.
I ended up getting too cold so I
swam/snorkelled back to the boat.
The guys were going in to the village to
play some touch football with the locals
so I went along. I took my shoes
thinking I might be able to play but
when I put them on my foot hurt too much
to run so I sat down and watched. There
were about 20 people on each side and
all sorts of bad play going on; forward
passes, passing after being touched and
running out of the grounds to get around
everyone. I think the scores ended up
pretty much even and they played till it
was dark.
Back to the Indies and another great big
dinner with some relaxing and bed.
DAY 7
June 10
Up for breakfast. Decided to relax for a
while as the waves had dropped out to
about two foot.
Martin had organised an excursion with
the local school to come out and have a
look through the boat and learn about
the Crossing project, reef check and
surfing around the globe along the
equator. I went on to fix my boards
while Gary and Paul taxied all the kids
out on the jet ski and the tin boat.
They were very inquisitive, looking at
everything asking questions and also
asking your name about 20 times. Ed
showed them a video and talked. They
understood and learnt that they should
look after their environment. Photo time
then back they went.
Renan and I went for a snorkel to have a
look around some of the reef in the
lagoon. |
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Captain Martin went to look for a motor
that had fallen off the back of a boat
three months ago. Elko, Renan and I
decided to go out and have a look at the
surf. Elko shot some waves. It was very
scary because I was getting barrelled on
the mat in 3 inches of water while they
sat up in front. Elko decided to go for
a spin into the local village. There was
a group of girls net fishing. We did a
loop around them and spun out, everyone
fell off. I got flung off first then
Renan and Elko. The girls started
laughing and laughing, Elko looked very
embarrassed and I couldn’t stop
laughing at him either. Went straight
back to the boat and I finished fixing
one of my boards. Dinner, bed.
DAY 8
June 11
Up for the usual breakfast, did some
exercises and stretching.
Martin and Paul went for a dive off the
outer reef. We relaxed as the surf was
small and the wind was blowing so we
couldn’t go further around to check
out the other spots we had heard about.
Fixed my board and attended to some
lunch. After lunch we had a chance to go
scuba-diving under the boat so Renan and
I got geared up and over we went. Paul
the cook came down with us to make sure
we were ok and to show us how to clear
our masks, no problems there. I lost
Renan but kept on going cruising around
the reef. It was only 30 to 40 feet, so
incredible to be able to cruise around
on the bottom, breathing as though you
were snorkelling. Came up after about an
hour and headed back to the boat.
I worked on fixing my board while some
of the guys went in to play touch footy
with the locals. Martin was on the jet
ski. The wind had backed off and changed
direction a little, he asked me if I
wanted to go and check out the other
pass. Of course I jumped on. As soon as
we got around the corner, the wind was
straight onshore but we went for a look
anyway. I caught three waves, just to
say that I surfed it. We headed back to
the boat via the bays along the coast,
they were very beautiful. The locals had
invited us to a fundraiser for their
football team to go to the mainland to
play in the inter-island once a year
comp. We all went in and had a great
night getting to know the locals over
some kava, hot milo and cakes.
DAY 9
June 12
After breakfast we saw a little increase
in the swell so Ed Lovell asked me if I
wanted to go for a surf. We paddled out
about ¾ of a kilometre. It was almost
too small so I took it very carefully at
the start. There was a couple of 3 foot
sets but very far apart. After about an
hour Ed lost his board after his leggie
snapped so I started paddling in to get
it. The water was very shallow, I had to
lie face down and float over, catching
here and there. Martin came out on the
jet ski to take us back to the boat.
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Martin went for a dive to have a look
for the motor that had been lost. They
came back successful, with motor in hand
covered in barnacles. I looked at it and
thought it was no good and that it would
need a full overhaul to make it work.
However Martin opened the cover pulled
out the spark plugs, sprayed some CRC on
it, made sure there was some spark,
pulled it over about 50 times, unceased
the accelerator and rip cord and after
about an hour, got it started. He then
took it for a drive to heat it up to
stop the corrosion. I was totally
amazed, after three months on the bottom
of the bay they were driving around.
Martin told them to take it home and
clean it out and keep the CRC on it. |
The others had gone for a surf down the
coast, having a look for different
waves, so Martin took Renan and I on the
jet ski to have a look. It was about
four to five foot on the big ones, you
had to pick the ones with no wall so you
could get a bit of a ride before it went
too fast and closed out. Surfed for a
little bit then went back to our break
out the front which was still only two
foot but fast and dangerous.
DAY 10
June 13
Slept in till 8 am, got up for a
breakfast of fruit and toast.
The decision was being made on whether
we drive on or stay. During this time a
little diving comp eventuated. Elko
performed big swan dives however Paul
took out the title with his smooth back
flip. Had a swim around for some
exercise while Chris took some photos.
The decision was made to stay so Jeff
and I thought we would check out the
local church. Got ourselves together and
jumped in the tin boat to make our way
to the island.
We headed up to a house where a lady
took us in and sat us down, listened to
the radio and watched the kids. Kids
everywhere, touching your legs, arms,
hair and even playing with your toes.
After five minutes I was given a sulu to
wear to cover my legs and off to church
we went. The service was good even
though I couldn’t understand it.
Halfway through a young man stood up and
said how the outboard that Martin had
retrieved and started was a total
miracle and that they had been praying
for three months for something to happen
and how they were so grateful and joyful
and happy in these words. After that
Jeff stood up and thanked them for
inviting us into their homes and to let
us experience their way of life. Then it
was my turn. After battling the nerves I
thanked them for inviting us and spoke
of how I had spent a lot of time on the
mainland when I was younger. I agreed
that the motor resurrection was a
miracle and that they should never stop
believing in Jesus and to always pray
and believe because miracles do happen.
After church there was lunch. We were
taken to someone’s house where we sat
cross-legged and ate with our fingers.
Good food: fish, chicken, spaghetti,
taro, yams and for dessert: banana and
papaya in milk, very traditional and
interesting. A quick walk with the kids
afterwards to look at some pigs and back
to the boat.
Everyone was going for a surf around the
reef because the wind had changed
direction so off we went. It was good
fun and some good barrels were had. As
it got later the tide came in and the
surf improved.
Over an awesome dinner we discussed reef
check, the amazing day that had just
gone by, comps and surf.
DAY 11
June 14
Slept in while everyone else had gone
for the early. Sat down to a leisurely
breakfast.
Captain pulled anchor and we negotiated
the small channel out. We drove around
the reef until the rest of the crew was
found. They had found a peak on the
corner of the reef, five to six foot and
looking perfect. It was mainly going
left with an occasional right coming
through. We surfed for about an hour,
getting some quality barrels.
Captain Martin wanted to start driving
before the wind came up so we went on to
have a look at the next island which was
a few hours away. Didn’t really see
anything that promising so we decided to
embark on the next big journey. Had
enough time to watch a movie and do some
fishing along the way.
DAY 12
June 15
Woke up as soon as we pulled anchor.
This spot showed potential, if only the
swell was a bit bigger. We headed
towards the next location and found a
small but rideable wave on the corner of
the SouthEast edge of the island. We
moved over to the line-up where it
looked quite dangerous. Caught some good
barrels but had to be careful not to get
caught on the inside, as the tide went
out it became almost unrideable. We
anchored there for about three hours and
Martin fixed the motor on the tin boat
as it wasn’t working very well. After
a relaxing lunch we started off to the
next island.
DAY 13
June 16
Up early to the sound of the engine for
only about 30 seconds. Major problems!
Captain Martin, Paul the cook and the
Indonesian crew werel rushing around
trying to see what went wrong. After
about ten minutes they discovered that
the pulley that runs the water pump had
broken and was flopping around. This had
then broken the housing on the engine
and was blowing oil. Lucky they had a
spare engine and parts but they didn’t
have a big enough spanner to undo one
nut so they made one and changed all the
parts over. It took them all day.
I relaxed and went fishing, swimming and
did some reading. After lunch Jeff
Hornbaker wanted to do some art shots
and we wanted to go for a snorkel. It
was a very low tide and a lot of the
reef was exposed and there was good
snorkelling. Renan and I were
snorkelling past this ledge and I
thought I saw some coral move. Then
Renan starts making some noises and for
me to come up. He pointed out the
biggest moray eel, its head was the size
of a football. We got out of there
because Renan said they could attack and
hurt or drown you. Went back to the boat
after Jeff had taken his photos and had
a quick fish but caught nothing. Dinner
again was nice, had a little talk with
everyone, bed.
DAY 14
June 17
Up for breakfast, engine started, off we
went. Had a look at about two islands
before we found one with good waves but
the wind was lightly onshore and the
captain wanted to keep going. Lunch,
watched a movie while we were driving
and found a very good place to anchor.
Sat on the bow of the boat and watched
the sun go down, it was a great
experience. Watched another movie and
bed.
DAY 15
June 18
Engine started, it woke me so I got up
and went out and watched for a bit.
Breakfast. Drove over to another island
as we were driving over to it, we
spotted a right which looked perfect but
as we got closer you could see a few
sections in it but from there we could
see another. This one looked perfect so
out we jumped, but could get only enough
speed to just get the odd turn in or a
tube. Mick spotted another further up
the reef so I paddled up with him. This
one was better, a little slower, and you
could get properly barrelled. Surfed for
about three hours and no one came up to
pick us, so we had to paddle back down.
Burnt, tired and hungry but happy. Lunch
and a drive down round the island, found
a number of breaks but Mick wanted to go
back to where we surfed before so back
we went. I didn’t surf, I was burnt
enough so relaxed and watched. A change
came through and it started raining. Up
anchor and sailed into the harbour. Sat
around talking, dinner was served.
Movie, bed.
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