Clinton Celliers

2/03/2001

Pretty hard to describe the emotional journey through the preparation stages of preparing for the ultimate trip. Kind of like going from 0-100km in four secs, it's a rush, it's sudden and it's always gonna leave you slightly breathless. Seven days ago the mere thought of this trip didn't even exist, a routine visit through the Quik offices to discuss business became a whirlwind of Visa forms, and suddenly I was spiralling into my fantasy surfing adventure. My mind shaken free of responsibilities as my entire consciousness totally absorbed the image of The Indies Trader catalogue on Barry Wollins office table. Just for a moment I swore I could hear the water surface lapping against the steel hull of the Orange, Navy & White floating oasis. Isn't it amazing how powerful and absorbing a surf adventure can be to one's mind and spirit.

Reality check # 48, 11.50pm, night before departure. The new Crossing Boards look insane, the curves divinely designed for the mission ahead, only one problem though it would be nice if they were glassed, sprayed sanded and packed!.

Reality check # 69, 10.00am morning of departure. No time to wipe dust from the sanding bay and hardly enough time to make the cross-town traffic, we're now deep into departure time! Don't you just love holding your line under pressure? That's what surf adventure is all about.

Planes, trains & automobiles, Seen the movie? 24 hrs of commuting puts us at a stinky dockside wharf with all the local village kids having a Sunday afternoon splash. No sign of the boat as the lads get ripped 22000 Rupia for a quart of beer. Just as I'm nodding off for the umpteenth time Jason spots the vessel. An awesome sight to behold as it sneaks up on us, stealth like from around a palm fringed corner, then into full technicolor magnificent view. Cut the hype and the paint job out for a second, the boat still has a vibe and soul feel to it. Really exciting to think of all the surf stars who have bunked down on it, combine that with the fact that this is our new home and one can't help feel just a little special.

Day 1

We are already deep into the surf zone, and we assured that all the breaks we are about to check out have never been surfed or named. First up we hover to what is probably the most perfect crescent shaped right hander we've ever seen, 1ft barrels zipping down the reef edge - a quik paddle and a note to be back when the swell lifts. We settle quickly into the pattern of eat, sleep and surf. A short chug away and we find exposed swell rolling onto an island edge. Everybody scrambles for boards and rashy's and the next six hours see everyone surfing their brains out. Everybody draws clean lines on the slightly fat but clean faces - not the worlds best right hander but a lot better than 99% of the planets surfers experienced on the 05/03/01. Plus it's a Monday!

Everybody goes through their quivers feeling first the flow of both the boards and wave energy through the tide changes. Three years of trying to find the magic board suddenly is put to rest as I lay down my first deep drawn bottom turn - funny how you just know!

Day 2

We wake to see the swell more than doubled overnight. Hysteria is replaced by a steady rhythm of rides from all the gang, as the swell increases. After lunch we are all happy to sail away from an enticing but often unrewarding rolling right hander and head back to that perfect set up - we now need barrels!

The boys are feeling the effects now, sore muscles, sunburnt body parts and rashes are creeping into dinner table conversations, as well as the "most scars" contest! The South Africans are proud to have Jason Ribbink, complete with epic scalping scar and bullet wounds. He is however no match for Captain John who looks like he's wrestled with a lawnmower many times over. Naturally the conversation ends on the topic of shallow reefs and the perks of surfing in the tropics. The stock of beer on the boat is just a little more depleted.

Day 3

Tease, tease, tease. That's all this perfect right hand reef is doing to us. We all surf it in shifts according to personal urges - the day is still a great one. Come on we're anchored off a tropical island, our boat is the most recognizable and probably the most envied surfing vehicle on the planet. We have every luxury at our disposal, I don't even think we have to wax our own boards, the staff and crew are that efficient. It's warm and the waves are a very clean 2-3ft on the sets (overhead for me being a kneeboarder). Spear fishing, scuba diving and buzzing around the island coastline in the steel dingy in between surfs has to equal a great day three on the Crossing.

Day 4

We awaken in a new group of islands. Another left reef is discovered as some of the team surf the crossover peaks. We are still getting fryed by the sun even though the day itself is steely grey with overcast and rain patches. Stunning scenery of rock formations and botanical overhangings are absorbed as we anchor for an evening of surf at another reef. The waves were a combination of left pointbreak with a barrel. Up against the shadows of the island Jake, Justin and Mick opting to take cover from the UV rays. Jason, Lee, Dave and myself surf a crossover wedge peak offering lefts and rights, depending on the angle of the approaching swell. Fun surf, but we're aching for some real waves. Still, "it's all good" has become a catch phrase while reflecting on the days events and there hasn't been an evening without it yet. Supper is superb! Green Thai Curry A-La-Micko. Ribbink wastes his portion over the side as he goes down for a days dehydration leave. Sister Belinda administers from the medicine cupboard while the rest of us don't have much sympathy at all, I mean after all, how long did he think he could keep up with me at "last one to bed, first one up, surf the most, drink the most" contest.

Day 5

Anchored off a great left hand reef. The boys get a small taste of what this high profile left could produce. Just a small taste though, the swell pulse is fading by the minute. My solo surf is disturbed by an onshore rain squall. We get out of the water and we head for a right hander on a neighboring island which promises to be offshore. What do you know, half an hour of cruising at about an eight knot rate gets us onto a rolling right hander with head high swell. Great way to end the day, surfing some waves with a push. Plus Jason is dehydrated, feeling a little dozy and crying for Marisa and Medivac! We all get more waves this day.

Day 6

Lets get one thing straight no one is eating better than the Crossing crew and guests, but the bonus is fresh bread baked daily aboard the boat, and no machine (besides the bedroom airconditioner) is working harder than the toaster. The sight of the boys guzzling down toast & cereal greets the start of everyday. They're all raging on the Aussie issued Vegemite. I know from experience our meat extracts like Bovril are better and I'm kicking myself for not bringing my own bottle. Chocolates have also been overlooked. I've kept it hush but on day two I had already discovered a chocolate stash deep in the hold and chose to keep it hushed and make a few trips down there everyday for my chocky fixes. Took Dave Patterson scuba diving for the first time. Captain John and I had a great dive on an old shipwreck which took up most of the afternoon.

Day 7

The way of life on the Crossing is now totally comfortable and the regular pattern of work, home, career responsibilities and deadlines, along with the frustrations and stress, is a distant blur in my conscious. Everyday is becoming this vast expanse of 12 hour voids that all you can fill it with is recreation. Sounds crazy but it does take a bit of adjusting. Even though the swell is on the decline just the fact that the water is 30 degrees and crystal clear keeps luring me back. I must be getting fitter again, I don't think my body has surfed six hours plus a day for more than a year. The aches and creaks are less and less everyday. Great!

The view from the island we are docked off is incredible, a quick but challenging swim ashore gives one the postcard view of palm fronds, electric blue water just beyond the line up and the boat, perched like a jewel on the big blue canvas.

The sky this night is so crystal clear that the bright stars aren't outshining the rest of the night sky. The entire sky is evenly lit with a billion stars, the ocean surface is alive with blankets of phosphoresce, every where around us. Up and down we are encapsulated by a show of natures lights, set in the even blackness of the sky and the ocean as one. We truly are alone out here somewhere. How reassuring some moments can be to remind us of the greatness of god who has made all this for us to appreciate and enjoy.

Day 8

The swell has bottomed out and is bordering on flat, and considering the nautical miles we have covered, Captain decides a refuel is necessary.

At the dockside of some flea-riddled village I am surprised at how many drums of diesel it takes to satisfy the Indies Trader's hunger. Mind you, she has been powering through the night, virtually every night in the quest for new breaks and perfect waves. The crew decide that one must drink up the swell when it is this flat, somehow a box of rum ends up at the supper table and the rest of the night falls into a blur (and into folklore for those on the boat).

Day 9

I am now intimately involved with this boat. We are over half way through the trip and I anguish at the thought of getting off. This trip is now a cozy bubble of luxury and fantasy which I'm not ready to burst. I'm told this is a new group of islands we are in, they all look insane to me. We check out this perfect left hander, swell just not big enough. The gaps between these islands are much closer and the rip running through the pass (and under our boat) is so fast a flat-out sprint paddle will still see you going against it very rapidly out to sea. Jake and Lee are very happy we have such an efficient tin boat and crew.

Day 10

Overnight travel gives us an awakening of another local village. Spending some time in the local village as we all sway on our sea legs, but happy to acquire a few carvings and momentos. Lee and Dane blow the local kids away with their small wave acts as they blitz the small point-like waves on the inside of the lagoon. Everyone is stoked just being here, but the Quiksilver quest goes on. A few hours on the sea again and another sweet right hander. We surf it for what it's worth, the potential of this one is also crazy. The water the clearest yet, except for the dead fish floating nearby. We are told some idiot fisherman used explosives to fish with. Strange time this, as we arrive back on board there are three locals with automatic assault weapons waiting on board for us. First explosives, now guns what is going on? Turns out they are police patrol and not pirates. Supper and discussions are taken up by Justin Saunders shark scare story, a horror encounter of Cat and Mouse tension not far from my house back in South Africa. A sobering reflection of another day on the Crossing.

Day 11

We are back at a previously visited right hander that picks up swell. The boys are ripping again. In the spirit of things everybody rides somebody else's board. Jason and Lee use Steven Slater's longboards. Even Mick the cook rides my kneeboard and rips it standing up. It's great interaction and we all learn a little more about the diverse dimensions of this incredible sport of surfing (yes I was stand-up surfing!).

Day 12

My camera is drenched and my inspiration is low.

Day 13

The thing that blows me away everyday is how damn hot it is. Jake has come up with a clever way of staying out of the sun. I copy him by lying in the water between sets with our boards being used as umbrellas, or more like sunshields. The line up looks like a floating graveyard with these bobbing tombstones and lifeless floating bodies, not only that it is also incredibly quiet between sets. We extend our surfing time this way so it's all good.

Day 14

Our last few days all seem to have merged into one but the thing that strikes me about today is how loud the jungle is. We are surfing this great right hand reef but it's more like a point break as these rights peel down the edge of the islands and right under the jungle canopy. It's a unique lineup with overhanging trees, jungle vines and creepers swaying and hanging over the lineup. I spend the last four surfing hours of my Crossing trip getting barrelled and kicking out amongst the dipping vegetation and shades and sounds of the jungle down on the inside of the lineup. The wave is mechanical and consistent and I surf my mind and body to a stand still. I am a grommet again and nothing exists outside the experience of this session. I totally absorb it as I know tomorrow is my regression back to civilization. Then my only escape will be the memories of the time on the Crossing.

I swear if I listen carefully I can Hear the sound of the water lapping against the steel hull of that Orange, Navy and White floating oasis.