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Trip 13
DAY 1
It’s about 10:30am when I arrive
on board. I’m so tired because I have
had to make a very long trip (about
twenty hours from France). I met Jodie
Smith at the airport, she’s a very
nice Aussie. She stays at my house when
on holiday. When I arrived on the boat
Danielle Beck, Quiksilver USA,
introduced herself and the other girls.
There is Veronica, Lisa, Sofia, Jodie,
Christiana, Danielle, Sue, Claudia, the
captain John, Zane the cook and crew;
Jim, Chris and Sue. I know Veronica and
Sophia. I’ve had to take some photos
with Veronica. She’s really nice and
funny. Sofia is a very nice girl. I met
her during the Billabong Pro, I really
like her because she speaks English and
a little French so she can explain to me
what I don’t understand. I don’t
really know the other girls. There is
also Jeff Hornbaker and Don King, They
are the photographers. All the
countryside is very beautiful, very blue
with a lot of islands with green palms
like the postcards.
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DAY 2
I have my first surf here, it’s a
right but not that good. However, I had
fun. The take off was really good and
after the wave stopped. During this
session I caught a very good wave. I was
at the take off and Lisa said to me, “Go,
Go” and I am sure it was the best wave
of my session, “Thank you, Lisa”.
After this good surf we had a lunch,
which was very good, and John, the
captain, told me “we will go to check
for another wave”, a left. The search
was long, about eight hours.
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During this day we also did a “reef
check”. It was so cool. I have seen a
lot of beautiful fish; blue, yellow,
black and I have also seen a shark. So
beautiful, it was not really big. During
the trip to another island I saw
dolphins in front of the boat. I really
like dolphins, they are my favourite
animals and I have never seen one
before. After that I felt so sick. I
went to sleep very early, maybe at 3pm,
without eating. |
DAY 3
It was a very good day. We arrived at an
island. There is a left, beautiful, but
very small. I went surfing with Sophia
and Jodie. It was very good, but diving
one wave I touched the reef because it
was very shallow, but I was ok. Jodie
broke her board at the nose which she
was unhappy about because it was her
favourite board. After this good surf
the Captain, Veronica and I went diving.
I didn’t dive very deep because of my
left ear, however, the fish were very
beautiful but the reef was dead. When we
finished the dive we did a little
surfing which was not that good, then
the whole group went to a lagoon. First,
we walked for a while on the rocks,
which was difficult, before we arrived
at a blue lagoon, like a swimming pool.
It was very funny because we fought with
black things. When we came back on board
with Danielle, Lisa, Veronica and Jeff
we went fishing. It was good.
DAY 4
I can’t say a lot of things about this
day because we have done nothing but
sleep and watch TV because we were
travelling. I have seen Austin Powers
but I can’t say if it’s a good or a
bad film because I don’t understand
the language.
DAY 5
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All morning we traveled to our next
destination, a famous tourist
destination in French Polynesia. When we
arrived all the girls were tired because
of the long trip, but we went surfing
anyway because we were too excited about
the beautiful right, not perfect but
very good. It was very crowded with
people but I had some good waves. All
the girls had good waves and Sophia had
a great wipeout. I hurt my foot and
Sophia cut herself. I did a small barrel
but I can’t surf very well with my
foot. All the girls had a long surf.
Tonight the cook had prepared a very
good dinner with ice cream with
chocolate for dessert……because it
was Halloween. |
DAY 6
Today was so good, we had two surfs and
we went to buy chocolate.
At about 6:30am the entire group went
surfing. There were some good waves. It
was smaller than yesterday but too
crowded. At every wave there was someone
already on it so it was very difficult
to catch a wave. I don’t know why but
the group ate at 10am after surfing. I
ate mashed potatoes, they were so good.
After this “strange dinner” we went
surfing again. During this session, I
took a lot of waves, more than other
girls, some waves were good and others
bad, but it was cool. After this second
surf we went to the same place as last
night, really beautiful. A man on a
jetski followed us. Veronica, Jodie,
Sophia, Danielle, Jeff and I went to a
supermarket to buy some sweets,
chocolate and wine.
I’m so happy to be on this trip. I
like everyone that is onboard.
Particularly Danielle. She’s so nice
and funny especially when she dances. It’s
so cool!
DAY 7
I love this day because in the morning I
had one of my best surfs so far. It was
a right, about one meter with a good
take off. I have caught a lot of waves
and my surf was good. The Captain said
to me that I had a good surf, Sofia and
Danielle said I was “ripping”. The
waves are on fire.
I was so happy when they said that to me
because I had caught some beautiful
waves, I was a little proud of myself
for a while. In the afternoon we went to
buy some food and tour the island. At
night Danielle, Jodie, Sofia and I
watched two videos. “The Moment”,
which was very good, and my favourite
video “No Destination”. Now I will
go to sleep because I am so tired and
excited for tomorrow, same surf at the
right. Good!!!
DAY 8
The waves were not good today. It was
smaller than yesterday and really
shallow. I caught some good waves so
never mind. I have done a “reef check’
but was not hurt. I have surfed three
times today but one time was very short.
I have played skipper with Veronica and
Jodie. Today and yesterday we surfed
with a Tahitian, Christopher, a nice
boy. He got some good barrels. Tonight
we watched “Armageddon”, a film with
Bruce Willis, really good and sad. Jodie
cried which made me laugh.
I’m so happy because I learn more and
more English everyday. I don’t want to
go back to France, I want to stay here
with the other girls.
DAY 9
I had fun today. I surfed twice, it was
good. The first time was not good, I
didn’t enjoy myself but the second
time was really good and funny. It was
with Lisa, Sofia, Veronica and Danielle.
My first wave was a big one, one of the
set. I didn’t do a lot on it but it
was good and big. I had a good wipeout
too. I was on the lip of the wave with
Veronica and I said to her “Go
Veronica”. I don’t know what
happened but I was falling at the same
time as the wave, it was so funny, I
loved this session. I had a good time
with Veronica, I guess because we have
the same taste. Today, Jodie hit her
face (mouth) with her board during a
duck dive but I think she’s ok. |
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DAY 10
I’m sad, because this trip will finish
soon and I want to stay here with the
girls. I had some good sessions today
and I think I surfed more today than any
other day. I had three sessions, a
tow-in in this morning and one in the
afternoon. All my sessions today were
good. It was on a left, a good left, the
same as yesterday and I had a lot of
fun, sooo gooooood!!!!!!! We have also
taken some photos with Jeff (the
photographer). It was so funny; all the
tall girls with the small girls on their
shoulders, all the girls were laughing.
During the day I was so tired but the
waves were so good that I surfed with my
new board. My “6.0”, a good board. I
like surfing with it.
DAY 11
I didn’t like today because we didn’t
have a surf, just photos and videos. We
took some photos, which was funny under
the rain. I was so cold and so wet. Amy
bought a lot of clothes from America. It’s
good because all Danielle’s clothes
were so dirty and stinky now. Tonight,
Zane cooked us mashed potatoes with
chicken. It was so good. Now I will go
to sleep because I’m so tired.
DAY 12
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Yes, just two days left on this boat. I
just want to stay here. Today we had a
surf that seemed strange. I had to take
my 5”7’ and there were sets more
than 2 metres. I didn’t catch a lot of
waves because my board was really too
small, at the take off it was pumping
and moving. If I had known the waves
were like this I would have taken my 6.0
or my 6.6. During this session Veronica
caught some good waves (she had a bigger
board). After, with the girls we went to
take photos with Jeff, it was so funny,
we had a good time. And later again,
just with Veronica and Christiana we
went to take more photos. It was funny.
I think Veronica is one of the best
people I have ever met. She’s like my
big sister and me her little sister, she’s
so coooooool!!!! |
DAY 14
Today we leave. I don’t want to go
back to France. Today we packed our
stuff and in the afternoon did a little
surfing. There was Hira Touinatofa. He
rips, and he’s too handsome. Now I’m
at the hotel but I am a little scared
being alone in this hotel and then at
the airport. We will have a dinner and
after that I will be alone. Then I will
finish this trip with a lot of great
memories.
THANK YOU FOR THIS MAGIC TRIP.
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